Header bolt removal - Success!

RSBowling · Post by **RSBowling** » Thu Nov 24, 2016 9:42 pm

Hi,
Decided to start another one of my tasks tonight, the dreaded header bolt removal!
After reading articles on this forum, I was well aware that the chance of snapping the studs was high. Especially as mine is a 1999 with 35thou on the clock.
My idea has been too slit the nuts, then breaking them off. Now there is not enough room for a angle grinder, so I bought a top multi cutter blade, a smart H35mb1 metal buster.
I took fairings off to avoid damage, and front part of air intake to ease access. Hacksaw a slit down the front of each nut, about 5mm in. Then multi cut a slit in the top of each nut, about 3mm deep, using oil as a cutting lube. Then got a big flat ed screwdriver and tapped it into the top groove, hitting in towards the engine. The nut opens up enough to turn off by hand, or splits and falls off.
No heat req, no damage caused, and done all within 2 hours!
Now to tackle the big bugger bolted under front of engine, clamping exhaust down pipe link together!
Hope this helps anyone.
Rich

RonB58 · Post by **RonB58** » Fri Nov 25, 2016 12:54 am

Hi Rich,
yep good thinking as the nuts will shear unless they are taken off regularly and greased. Have you got the old studs out yet? I have two of my four removed and retapped. Am still trying to get the right hand header pipe off as it is stuck at the cat end even with the bolt heads taken off. It is proving to be the most difficult and I cant get a drill to bite into the remaining studs. Hard metal there. I'm going to try and free the cat and wiggle it to see if I can break the bond.
In all my years working on bikes BMW has to be the worst for stuck fasteners. Jap bikes of much older vintage have never given me this hassle!

Good luck!

Ron

RSBowling · Post by **RSBowling** » Fri Nov 25, 2016 7:10 am

Hi Ron,
The studs seem in good condition so I'm just going to leave them. As for where the pipes meet the cat, I got some mole grips on the joint and managed too wiggle the joint apart. Have too clamp them up really tight, on the lug part of the clamp.
Hope this helps,
Rich

RonB58 · Post by **RonB58** » Sat Nov 26, 2016 2:06 pm

I have one pipe off ok but the RHS one is a bugger. Going to try taking the end cans off then try wiggling the cat!

Ron

slparry · Post by **slparry** » Sat Nov 26, 2016 3:55 pm

RonB58 wrote:Hi Rich,
yep good thinking as the nuts will shear unless they are taken off regularly and greased. Have you got the old studs out yet? I have two of my four removed and retapped. Am still trying to get the right hand header pipe off as it is stuck at the cat end even with the bolt heads taken off. It is proving to be the most difficult and I cant get a drill to bite into the remaining studs. Hard metal there. I'm going to try and free the cat and wiggle it to see if I can break the bond.
In all my years working on bikes BMW has to be the worst for stuck fasteners. Jap bikes of much older vintage have never given me this hassle!

Good luck!

Ron

You've never experienced the stupid 6mm exhaust studs on a Z650 then

.... you only have to look at them and they snap

RonB58 · Post by **RonB58** » Sat Nov 26, 2016 4:42 pm

I have experienced stuck studs on my Yamaha SR500 but that was a 40 year old bike!
Two more to drill and tap then I will be using stainless throughout the rebuild.

Ron

RSBowling · Post by **RSBowling** » Sat Nov 26, 2016 8:05 pm

Well after getting all giddy that I have removed the nuts, I am struggling to remove the down pipe from the head.
My suspicion is that the studs have rusted/ stuck to the clamp.
I have loosened the pipes from the ypiece, and wiggled but no movement at the clamp, bastard!
Also have hit the downpipes with johnny (rubber mallet) but no joy.
Any tips would be appreciated, but I appreciate somethings just take time, effort or a sacrifice.
Thanks guys,
Rich

slparry · Post by **slparry** » Sat Nov 26, 2016 10:42 pm

RSBowling wrote:Well after getting all giddy that I have removed the nuts, I am struggling to remove the down pipe from the head.
My suspicion is that the studs have rusted/ stuck to the clamp.
I have loosened the pipes from the ypiece, and wiggled but no movement at the clamp, bastard!
Also have hit the downpipes with johnny (rubber mallet) but no joy.
Any tips would be appreciated, but I appreciate somethings just take time, effort or a sacrifice.
Thanks guys,
Rich

longshot, but would running the engine help? Combination of back pressure, heat and vibes now the clamps are unfettered by the fasteners?

dave the german · Post by **dave the german** » Sun Nov 27, 2016 5:09 am

RonB58 wrote:I have experienced stuck studs on my Yamaha SR500 but that was a 40 year old bike!
Two more to drill and tap then I will be using stainless throughout the rebuild.

Ron

I have those delights to encounter when I get to that bit on my long long term restoration project

Pete. · Post by **Pete.** » Sun Nov 27, 2016 6:59 am

RonB58 wrote:I have experienced stuck studs on my Yamaha SR500 but that was a 40 year old bike!
Two more to drill and tap then I will be using stainless throughout the rebuild.

Ron

Don't expect stainless to be immune from the problem. Suzuki Bandit header bolts are stainless and they are notorious for seizing and snapping. I once had all eight shear right off with little effort.

RSBowling · Post by **RSBowling** » Sun Nov 27, 2016 8:07 am

Cheers slparry, will certainly give it a go! Wonder also if heat is the way to go?
Really don't want to break studs, as I have read they are a twat to change.
Will keep at it!
Rich

RSBowling · Post by **RSBowling** » Sun Nov 27, 2016 6:00 pm

Sit rep,
I'm pleased to report I/we have successfully removed the downpipes from the head. Did this by heating the area up with a blow lamp, then whilst my dad was pulling up at the ypiece end, i hit the back of the downpipes with johnny.
Little bit of movement so plenty of wd40. Patience was the key.
Hope this helps others, and unless you need to remove them, leave them alone!
Rich

slparry · Post by **slparry** » Sun Nov 27, 2016 8:08 pm

RSBowling wrote:Sit rep,
I'm pleased to report I/we have successfully removed the downpipes from the head. Did this by heating the area up with a blow lamp, then whilst my dad was pulling up at the ypiece end, i hit the back of the downpipes with johnny.
Little bit of movement so plenty of wd40. Patience was the key.
Hope this helps others, and unless you need to remove them, leave them alone!
Rich

excellent!!

RSBowling · Post by **RSBowling** » Sun Nov 27, 2016 8:34 pm

Cheers mate!
Now onto painting! Also going to replace gaskets, is there a cheap place to buy from? Motor works are brilliant but can't help but feel the gasket prices are high.
Thanks,
Rich

slparry · Post by **slparry** » Sun Nov 27, 2016 9:05 pm

RSBowling wrote:Cheers mate!
Now onto painting! Also going to replace gaskets, is there a cheap place to buy from? Motor works are brilliant but can't help but feel the gasket prices are high.
Thanks,
Rich

I can get you 10% off the genuine ones if that helps