Oil change frequency
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Oil change frequency
So do you observe manufacture recommended frequency changes or ignore them? MHO is you must be bonkers to go over what they state but is changing engine oil for the sake of it good practise or fannying about and kidding oneself?
Engine oils have never been better or cleverer they tell us. So why dump it when it is still serviceable?
I thought changing annually was good practise but if the boys who make the engines state the frequencies why precede that? Like if it ain`t broke don't fix it.
Engine oils have never been better or cleverer they tell us. So why dump it when it is still serviceable?
I thought changing annually was good practise but if the boys who make the engines state the frequencies why precede that? Like if it ain`t broke don't fix it.
Last edited by boxerscott on Tue May 31, 2016 7:38 am, edited 1 time in total.
Fiat Panda.
Fiat Scudo (with speedblock, pipe carrier, reversing sensors, reversing camera, tow bar, some new rust and Fake Plumber logo)
started out with nothing, still have most of it left.
Fiat Scudo (with speedblock, pipe carrier, reversing sensors, reversing camera, tow bar, some new rust and Fake Plumber logo)
started out with nothing, still have most of it left.
As I only do 5k miles a year these days, its once a year for me - it hardly breaks the bank, and I've always thought that oil changes are the best preventative medicine there is. I also quite like sseeing the mucky stuff come out....and pouring the clean, golden stuff back in....but that might just be me.....
Our diesel Renault Espace was on 18k-miles services when we bought it, using expensive 'long-life' synthetic oil. It was actually cheaper to service it once a year (we do 10-12k miles) than 'stretch' the interval and use long-life oil. Renault subsequently dropped the interval to 12k miles on 'ordinary' oil.
Oil tech has definitely moved on a lot, but I'm sure there's an awful lot of marketing guff goes on too.
Pete

Our diesel Renault Espace was on 18k-miles services when we bought it, using expensive 'long-life' synthetic oil. It was actually cheaper to service it once a year (we do 10-12k miles) than 'stretch' the interval and use long-life oil. Renault subsequently dropped the interval to 12k miles on 'ordinary' oil.
Oil tech has definitely moved on a lot, but I'm sure there's an awful lot of marketing guff goes on too.
Pete
Nocto Diuque Venamur
IIRC oil is designed to work best when it's been run in so for normal running as long as you're within the OEM's change parameters 'dirty' oil is still doing its job. In normal use changing it too often isn't helpful and at the extreme may be harmful.
The OEM's recommendation annual / x,000 miles should be about right (also gearbox, final drive)- and there are other bits that time expire like brake fluid too.
I've always been suspicious of these extended oil changes & 'sealed for life' claims though!
On modern engines the oil is as much part of the design as any metal component and tolerances are finer, design is nearer the limit, so it's worth careful research if you use a non-OEM-specified oil.
The OEM's recommendation annual / x,000 miles should be about right (also gearbox, final drive)- and there are other bits that time expire like brake fluid too.
I've always been suspicious of these extended oil changes & 'sealed for life' claims though!
On modern engines the oil is as much part of the design as any metal component and tolerances are finer, design is nearer the limit, so it's worth careful research if you use a non-OEM-specified oil.
I change my oil annually. My mileage varies, but normally around the 3K mark (I know, I know) so I am changing engine oil and final drive oil twice as often as needed, and gearbox oil probably more than that.
There is no risk to the engine, gearbox etc to more frequent changes, and in the case of the final drive, it allows me to keep an eye on a known fragile assembly. It is also an opportunity to give the bike a thorough check over before the summer as I also check clearances etc.
The only risk you could probably envisage is the increased risk of stripping a thread or damaging something if you are heavy handed, no issue if you torque things up properly.
Cost wise, I do it my self, so negligible in the overall scheme of things and I enjoy it.
There is no risk to the engine, gearbox etc to more frequent changes, and in the case of the final drive, it allows me to keep an eye on a known fragile assembly. It is also an opportunity to give the bike a thorough check over before the summer as I also check clearances etc.
The only risk you could probably envisage is the increased risk of stripping a thread or damaging something if you are heavy handed, no issue if you torque things up properly.
Cost wise, I do it my self, so negligible in the overall scheme of things and I enjoy it.
********Jim********
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2006 'Colgate' R1200s
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2006 'Colgate' R1200s
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I have always thought with an air cooled engine it's best to change oil often, with roller bearing engines I use duckhams or equivalent, but modern water cooled engines I use top quality synthetics & take them to the limit. For the 1100s I use some V twin oil aimed at air cooled engines which seems to be fine, but then I've only done just over 21k.
I have a 200k + 2002 Mercedes diesel & follow the computer for servicing, often going just over the interval but use the good synthetic. The engine uses almost no oil (less than 1 litre per 19K or so miles), didn't feel run in until about 140k & runs nicely now.
We can get hung up on this oil or that, if it's the right spec according to the manufacturer & changed in good time along with the filter, it will be ok.
I have a 200k + 2002 Mercedes diesel & follow the computer for servicing, often going just over the interval but use the good synthetic. The engine uses almost no oil (less than 1 litre per 19K or so miles), didn't feel run in until about 140k & runs nicely now.
We can get hung up on this oil or that, if it's the right spec according to the manufacturer & changed in good time along with the filter, it will be ok.
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It has and I am sure a sizeable about of what we pay for it goes into the Marketing. I was going to change the oil in my Sportsbike, just because I have had it a year. I have done less than I.5K miles on it. 2k to go before the recommended and then I thought FCuk it stop FaFFin Chris and let the oil do what it says on the tin. Saved £35 with just a sensible thought process. Wish I could apply that thought process thing more oftenmilleplod wrote:
Oil tech has definitely moved on a lot, but I'm sure there's an awful lot of marketing guff goes on too.
Pete

Fiat Panda.
Fiat Scudo (with speedblock, pipe carrier, reversing sensors, reversing camera, tow bar, some new rust and Fake Plumber logo)
started out with nothing, still have most of it left.
Fiat Scudo (with speedblock, pipe carrier, reversing sensors, reversing camera, tow bar, some new rust and Fake Plumber logo)
started out with nothing, still have most of it left.
- The Teutonic Tangerine
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I ride about 10k Miles a year (R1200ST)and change oil & Filter every 6000 miles Air filter, Plugs and transmission oils at every 12000 miles - Plugs probably would last way longer than that but you cannot accurately re gap them (twin electrodes with curved end pointing at the central electrode) SO just change them.
There would appear to be a surfeit of prolixity and sesquipedalian content today please do not use a big word when a singularly un-loquacious and diminutive linguistic expression will satisfactorily accomplish the contemporary necessity
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once a year , at the end of the season , so oil in the engine over winter is clean , no contaminates laying the engine over the winter ,,, but the stuff that comes out goes into the lawnmower , the stuff that comes out of the mower goes onto hedge trimmer blades and oils the inside of my lorry chassis ,,,
who says im not green ,,,lol
who says im not green ,,,lol
its not a boxer , its a 180 degree v-twin
Two aspects of that:Mitch1100 wrote:Old school I guess, mine are changed every 5000km. Condensation moisture worries me
You can only precipitate the volume of water from the air volume of the crankcase - which is next to nothing.
When you are out on the bike - the temperature of the oil will flash off any condensation and due to the movement of boxers (high pumping losses due to opposed pistons) - that "laden" air will be expelled.
Al

If I am ever on life support - Unplug me......
Then plug me back in..........
See if that works .....
Then plug me back in..........
See if that works .....
