Rear Subframe and Exhaust Removal

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bfisher
Posts: 224
Joined: Mon Jan 12, 2015 10:37 pm
Location: SW London

Post by bfisher »

Digging back in time with this post but i'm in process of removing the subframe from the bike to clean it up; was hoping to keep exhaust in place which i think is what Scotty has achieved here.. Can anyone confirm this is possible to do or should i just disconnect the cans anyhow & pull subframe off & then remove cans with a bit more access (i.e. with subframe removed).

Also, if i'm going to break the join between exhaust pipe & the cans, is there any need to be consider a sealant or similar to minimise the chance of a leak.. This purpose of this exercise (removal of subframe) is to enable easy access to shock (rear) for replacement as well as cleanup & repaint the subframe BUT i can see this leading to me wanting to clean up the whole exhaust (& those all too many forums entries of late about broken nuts on removing headers is starting to get close to home for me to deal with).

The other question i have is around the wireloop; is there any recommend products to clean these up such as a shrinkwrap?

And while i'm asking questions (last one for this thread!) is do i bother to re-paint the fibreglass ont he subframe assembly as i feel that it only looks half done with the way in which BWM finish it (i.e. showing fibreglass fibres through the mould; tempted to put a matt or glass on it.
dave the german
Member
Posts: 3642
Joined: Tue Nov 01, 2005 4:35 am
Location: North East

Post by dave the german »

I got a local guy to heat the header nuts to cherry red and they all loosened ok but he did comment that they wouldn't have come off without heat. That's on a bike that has never seen road salt!! I bought a tube of exhaust paste so I'll report back on it's sealing capabilities when I rebuild
'15 R1200GS TE
'06 R1200S
'04 BCR
Yam SR 500 long term restoration
wanna win the lottery and ride my bike
dysondiver
Posts: 296
Joined: Thu Oct 18, 2012 1:10 pm
Location: UK

Post by dysondiver »

ive just replaced all the manifold studs . it will be brass nuts going on , vw beetle use 8mm nuts , but with a 11mm af , and nice and long , and a bit of tungsten disulphide powder wire brushed onto the studs should help but the brass nut thing may help , just a thought
its not a boxer , its a 180 degree v-twin
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