Rear wheel Removal

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BlueBoxer
Posts: 283
Joined: Tue Jul 18, 2006 10:36 pm
Location: St Helens Merseyside

Rear wheel Removal

Post by BlueBoxer »

Hi
I've covered around 7.5K since I bought the R1100s. The rear tye is a little thin, ~2mm and the MOT is due.

I've a new tyre waiting to be fitted tomorrow, so I thought I'd take the wheel of this evening. I thought it would take a few minutes, whip the brake caliper off, undo the 4 bolts, and drop the wheel off.

Caliper off, 4 bolts out, and one 'stuck' wheel. With a bit of not too gentle persuasion it came off :shock:

The wheel and the hub had corroded together.

Is there anything I should do to stop this happening in the future?

Searching the posts, I found something about not copper slipping the 4 bolts, but should I grease or otherwise treat the wheel to hub connection?

Steve
FJR1300
R1100S
winger

Post by winger »

Your not supposed to grease the bolts,i do(but not a lot) but there ya go,apart from greasing the contacts points between the wheel and hub,i've found the best solution is to take things apart more often,as you've already said it just takes a few minutes.

BUT!!! have you got a torque wrench??? cuz if you haven't you'll either need to buy or borrow one,the Torque setting is 105NM which is a fair old bit i can tell you,if you buy a wrench check what it goes up to,alot don't go over a 100.

If you go and have a tyre fitted make sure they've got the converter for the wheel, for putting it on the wheel balancer,before they start.

And while your at it,always found it's a great chance to drop the pads out of the caliper and clean everything up.
BlueBoxer
Posts: 283
Joined: Tue Jul 18, 2006 10:36 pm
Location: St Helens Merseyside

Post by BlueBoxer »

Winger,

I've already dropped the tyre off....I had a chat with them, as I'm fitting a smaller tyre to the wheel than the one fitted, it had a 180 on a 5" rim. They had a close look at the wheel, and never mentioned any balance problems.

Thanks for the steer on the torque wrench, I've just checked,mine does go up to 105 NM. I will clean and check the pads while I'm there.

I'll grease the joint between the wheel and the hub when I put it back together. There wasn't any evidence that there had ever been any grease there, and the two parts appear to have corroded together, so hopefully it'll come apart easier next time.
FJR1300
R1100S
JoeC
Posts: 540
Joined: Mon May 22, 2006 1:50 pm
Location: The Home of Ferodo

Post by JoeC »

Talking to my tyre dealer a few months back they said that it was common to get water between the wheel and hub and that it is essential that you grease this area.

Do not grease bolts unless manual tells you to (that's the book and not the waiter). Reason being is that it gives a false reading when tightening up and you actually torque it higher that what it should be.
Just make sure that the bolts are clean and rust free.
No longer a motorcycle owner.
BlueBoxer
Posts: 283
Joined: Tue Jul 18, 2006 10:36 pm
Location: St Helens Merseyside

Post by BlueBoxer »

All done :D

Wheel / hub contact point greased. Bolts cleaned and torqued back in dry.
Brake caliper cleaned.

The 170 tyre looks a lot better. The 180 appeared 'flat', rather than the more rounded I would expect :?

Thanks for the advice.

Steve
FJR1300
R1100S
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