Keeping the cost of new tyres down

[Graham G]

Recently took my bike into my local dealer to have new front and back tyres (Bridgestone Battlaxe BT 020's) and this cost a few bob.

Got talking to a guy at Stansted airport one evening. He had a K and said that to keep his tyre costs down, he bought his tyres direct (as a pair), took his own wheels off and took the wheels / new tyres down to National tyres to get them fitted.

Can anyone give me any advice on keeping the costs of tyres down (apart from not riding the bike!). I've looked at DIY - but it's not worth the hassle for a twice a year job.

This post is tied in with the paddock stand post.

Graham

[adamski49]

Graham

Unless they're really cheap it's not worth it as you'll pay full whack for fitting and balancing on top. You'd be better off going to WheelFit (01223 425831) down Fen Rd, Chesterton as they do a ride in / ride out service.

Being a sad git I always took the loose S wheels down in the car (this saved a few quid and let me give the bike a good clean up while the wheels were out) but my mate rode his S down for a pair of tyres and they didn't have any problems.

Rule No. 1 - Never get a dealer to fit tyres as it'll always cost a fortune. (Dare I ask what they cost? - I'm guessing WheelFit would be around £220 ride in / ride out for a pair of 020's)

HTH

Adam

[Jason M]

Adam mate -your new picture makes it look like you have a Fazer... with a sidecar Sort it out please

Jason

As for keeping the cost of tyres down - go part worn. 90% new BT020 on the back of the Fazer - £50 fitted and balanced. 80% new 90X for the S, £40 cash fitted and balanced. It's winter - who cares!

[adamski49]

Did I not mention the side-car?

[speedmachine]

use a independent tyre dealer. They are generally cheaper than anyone else. you don't need new valve every time that will save you a few quid. the only problem with mail order is when you go to a accompany with someone else's goods is that they will charge you extra for it i.e. fitting charge. I know because I used to fit tyres. best thing to do is take the adverts or quote asked to match that. they will usually get within £10 to £15 difference by the time you take into account fitting charge. It will work out cheaper to buy them from the tyre dealer also only get front wheel balance rear doesn't need doing. You will usually find tyres have a little red or yellow dot. This is supposed to line up with the valve. In theory, it shouldn't need balancing.
I need a set of tyres myself as mine have squared off I will use my local tyre dealer c&s tyre in Middlesbrough. I will get either diab or metzler m1 cost about £155 fitted to loose wheels.

[Graham G]

Thanks Adam and Speedmachine for the advice.

Adam, I'll give WheelFit a go when the tyres next need changing. The drive in / drive out is useful, but I may also take up your suggestion of whipping the wheels off just to give things a better clean.

Being new to motorcycling and definitely new the R1100S, I know I left the last set of tyres on too long (8.5K). That flat edge doesn't look much, but you notice it when you are leaning the bike more than 'normal'. Will be changing them more frequently!

Speedmachine, thanks for the snippet about wheel balancing. I did look at my tyres this morning, saw the dots and thought "Ah ha!".

I've learned more about bikes in the time I've been a member of this site than I have trawling through the BMW R1100S Maintenance CD I've got.

Thanks, Graham

[nab 301]

also only get front wheel balance rear doesn't need doing. You will usually find tyres have a little red or yellow dot. This is supposed to line up with the valve. In theory, it shouldn't need balancing.
I.

I tend to fit and balance my own tyres mainly for cost reasons, none of the independents had rear wheel adaptors to suit BMW.
The paint on the tyre is the lightest point on the tyre, and assumes that the valve stem is the heaviest point of the wheel , which in theory allows you to save on lead weights! However if you balance the wheel without the tyre you can find and mark the heaviest point of the wheel which may not be at the valve . Surely up to 50gm (if not balanced) would be enough to potentially damage transmission bearings, wheel brgs and even affect handling at speed. The last time I ran an unbalanced rear wheel (puncture out in the wilds ) there was a terrible thrumming ,almost like failing transmission, which was sorted once I balanced the wheel.
Nigel B

[speedmachine]

i use a sciorJack from a car. Jack front and rear Not at same time. About balancing wheel balances, run up to 60 mph only. in theory Once you get past a certain speed. It doesn't really matter. . Imperfections in casting the wheel i.e. in the spokes places where the eye cant see a little bits of aluminium can be stuck on the inside. Take a car wheels on the back of the car if the wheels was out of balance you would never know the tyre itself would have to be missed shaped, but a wheel on the front car at certain speeds. You would get a wobble through the steering wheel. It would not be there from zero speed to top speed. It only happens at certain speeds. things more annoying than anything else at the end of the day, if the little independent noses is stuff. He will get your wheels of and get the job done [ps]
.you can't balance the wheel without the tyre sounds more like counter balancing, which is when you put weights. At one point, and then put weights a other point

[winger]

Hi Graham

Find a tyre place,that a,can supply tyres at the right price,and b,has the adapter needed for the rear wheel,if your happy with e'm stay there and build up some kind of rapor with e'm,don't join the headless chicken brigade who chase around trying to save 3 quid.
If you think someone else is cheaper,tell e'm,they'll match it,i have a well known tyre supplier just round the corner from where i live an absolute bunch of monkeys!!! ask Gus,i'd rather go 20 miles down the motorway were i know they'll be fitted well.

And i say all that on the basis i can have tyres taken off and others fitted for free by someone else,and still don't do it.

While your takeing your wheels out to have tyres fitted,use the chance to strip the pads out of the brakes and clean up the calipers,you'd be amazed how many people only do it when there pads are knackered,it'll give you more of a chance to find out how you bike works.

Chris

[gus]

Hi graham
As chris has pointed out, find a tyre place who know their stuff and stick with em.I went somewhere else and it cost me a scratched wheel rim.
gus

[BockingBandit]

Even the 'Experts' screw it up at times though. I've always used Essential Rubber in N1. Got a new set of Z6's fitted last week,.... 'Ride-In Ride-Out'. Got onto Essex Road,... stopped for the lights,... 'Clunk Clunk Shudder Grind'. They hadn't refitted the bolts in my front left caliper. They insist that they had as no spare bolts were found on the garage floor, .. but it's funny how they knew exactly which bolts to bring to my rescue?.
Geoff

[speedmachine]

Nobody ever does a good job than yourself, specially when it's your own bike.

And it's always worth having a good check after the work is done.

That's why I don't mind taking the wheels off myself.

+ I can clean everything at the same time.

I hope you give them hell.
speedmachine