Hesitation

slparry · Post by **slparry** » Thu Oct 25, 2012 8:53 pm

Which is how my BCR is, it seems to suit the Remus well enough

Dai wiskers · Post by **Dai wiskers** » Thu Oct 25, 2012 11:01 pm

slparry wrote:Which is how my BCR is, it seems to suit the Remus well enough

Mine is now running no CCP, lambda Disconected, accelerator module connected,
chinese y piece, standard cans, rocket sprockets, timing advanced, 8 inlet 14 exhaust tho not metric, endfloat adjusted to the thinest feeler gauge i have, tps .385 running super unleaded, it rattles and vibes a bit but goes like stink with no surging, and it's not bad on fuel now i'm getting over 10 to the litre so i'm happy well i would be if it wasn't for the heavy clutch

SAS Tom · Post by **SAS Tom** » Fri Oct 26, 2012 7:47 am

Maybe taking the lambda out might be an idea then. I'm running a vandelinde exhaust andchip so quite a bit more open than the standard system!

Dai wiskers · Post by **Dai wiskers** » Fri Oct 26, 2012 9:20 am

Follow the wireing up on the righthand side the plug is under the tank righthand side bitch to get undone but with a bit of swearing it will come apart
The CCP if fitted is in the left indicator pod long black box the CCP is the thing at the front of the box most are yellow from the factory it looks like a relay but it just has a bridge inside remove this the box complete not bridge, then remove fuses from the left fusebox small black box above the relay box don't mix them up they have different values
Refit fuses turn on ignition do not start bike fully open throttle and fully close a couple of times turn off ignition [this resets the motronic]
Then start bike if it starts then cuts out you have the fuses mixed up [don't ask how i know]
Hopefully the bike will run sweeter than ever before as you will have taken the closed loop out of the system and the bike will be running on the throttle and not on the electronics

Good luck with it please report back and tell us how things are

SAS Tom · Post by **SAS Tom** » Fri Oct 26, 2012 11:10 am

Cheers dai, will have a look over the weekend.

boxerscott · Post by **boxerscott** » Fri Oct 26, 2012 12:03 pm

Re the bit about the vacuum gugee hoses

should not both hoses be of equal length for accurate comparison?

Dai wiskers · Post by **Dai wiskers** » Fri Oct 26, 2012 1:00 pm

boxerscott wrote:Re the bit about the vacuum gugee hoses should not both hoses be of equal length for accurate comparison?

In all honesty i don't know

But a vacume[spellin] is a pull or a lift, if you lift or pull a weight with a 3"bit of string it will take the same pull or amount of lift with a 12" bit of string so therefore i would think as long as the pipe is equal diameter[spelin] you will get the same reading no matter the length of pipe

At this point i will say that i'm not convinced cheap vacume gauges are worth buying due to them being manufactured in the far east very cheaply possibly with child labour and no care
so i therefor feel you would do better with something like a morgan carbtune or homemade oil or ballbearing manometer i use a ballbearing one easy to make with some clear tube and two ballbearings and some heatshrink

OK how to make a ballbearing manometer find about two foot of clear tubing 1/4" 6mm inner diameter now cut it almost in half take the shorter piece put a ball bearing in make sure it's small enough to move freely, join ends by putting in a small piece of tubing 3mm inner diameter clear or coloured it makes no difference as long as its a good tight fit a bit of heatshrink makes for a better join but is not that important you will need enough of this tube to reach both vacume intakes on the bike so you will need a good few feet

Now you have a circle of 6mm tubing with a ball bearing inside this is your centering mark as gravity will always make this ball fall to the lowest point
Now take the longer 6mm tube tape this outside your first circle you made now put in the other ballbearing cut your 3mm inner tubing in half and push half into each end of your outer loop tape up joins and your ready to go

you will note no matter what angle it's at the ballbearings will stay one above the other i hang the loop over the twistgrip so that the balls are visable from the righthand side of the bike, connect your long tubes to the inlet vacume points and away from any hot bit's
Now set up the lefthand BBS to 2.5 turns, start bike you will see the lower ballbearing is now being pulled to one side adjust the right BBS to bring both balls together, when you have got this right bring the revs up to 2000[see Dave i was listening] if the balls stay together your done if not you will need to adjust the right throttle cable to bring the balls back together.

This is the most accuate way i have found for ballancing carbs or fuel injection systems i have far more faith in this bit of tube than i have ever had with vacume gagues, a slight knock and they seem to read all over the shop the carbtune is good when new but again after a few knocks it will start playing up, i did make a few liquid manometers before discovering the ballbearing idea but ended up making a mess with the ATF filled one when i knocked it over, and sucked the water out into my old GPz engine

I will try to take a pic of my ball bearing one it realy is a lot simpler than it sounds

Dai wiskers · Post by **Dai wiskers** » Fri Oct 26, 2012 1:15 pm

Told you it was simple upper ball stays put due to gravity bottom ball moves due to vacume

SAS Tom · Post by **SAS Tom** » Mon Nov 05, 2012 7:43 pm

Bit late to reply on this but I removed the ccp and unplugged the lambda sensor. Solved all my problems, it runs so much better low down I wish I had done it sooner. Thanks dai!

Dai wiskers · Post by **Dai wiskers** » Mon Nov 05, 2012 10:00 pm

Don't thank me i just did what has been done many times before