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Posted: Sat Mar 09, 2013 11:39 am
by Twinspark
Apologies for dragging this up 5 years late...
But the forks on an 11S are nothing like those on the GS.
I've taken the top cap off at the yoke and just got a bleed bolt.
Looks like you need to undo the clamps on the yoke on an 11S.
Posted: Sat Mar 09, 2013 12:56 pm
by Dai wiskers
Very often when a leg starts leaking it will be caused by a piece if crud getting caught between the seal and the leg, this can often be fixed by running the thinest feeler gauge you can find round the inside of the seal no dismantling will need to be done, try this first before laying out any cash on parts
Posted: Sat Mar 09, 2013 1:38 pm
by Twinspark
I have the parts to do the job, but having had a look, I reckon my MOT man was a bit OTT last year. So I'm not doing them yet.
I also smacked my finger with a hammer, then got oil all over my drive, as the drain can couldn't swallow it as quickly as the 11S ejected it...
So I've put everything away for the day.
Posted: Sat Mar 09, 2013 1:46 pm
by Dai wiskers
My right hand leg leaks a touch after being stood up then stops again shortly afterwards. My MOT man last year didn't have a clue as to what he was looking at, he told me the forks didn't work and it was siezed solid at the front when i told him it was nothing like a normal pair of forks and showed him the front shoc he told me that "thats for the rear suspension" he got realy confused when i lifted the cover for the rear shoc and showed him that he then said " i will pass it this time but get it sorted before you bring it back"
Posted: Sat Mar 09, 2013 7:42 pm
by r550s
Have a look for a thread on this forum from 2010 titled 'front forks r1100s' the author is some knob called r550s - the thread includes a link to some more information
Posted: Sat Mar 09, 2013 7:50 pm
by Twinspark
Interesting.
Not sure how to pull the fork seals out without removing that tube - and I don't want to go to all the hassle of removing it!
Posted: Sat Mar 09, 2013 8:28 pm
by Dai wiskers
You can get seals out by carefully drilling a small hole half way through the seal then screw a small self tapper into the hole pull out with plyers or use a small seal remover
Posted: Sun Mar 10, 2013 7:46 pm
by nab 301
Twinspark wrote:Interesting.
Not sure how to pull the fork seals out without removing that tube - and I don't want to go to all the hassle of removing it!
Not that i've ever had to replace the seals or completely remove the stanchion , I have however dropped the stanchion out of the top yoke ( loosen one bolt)while moving bars between under /over the top yoke.
Did you get this far ? if so then the stanchion just pulls out and as per R550s link
This is in the photo at the start of this thread
The top end cap is blind (and can actually be levered out in-situ if you're so inclined) whereas the bottm end cap has a M8 threaded hole in the centre, into which the 'Drain Bolt' screws to hold the whole thing in place
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