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Went up to Buxton for the weekend, had a cracking time, with the missus, on the S, first time using my hard luggage too

However, pretty much the first roundabout, and there was a good old scrape, which I assumed to be the centre-stand grounding out. At the next set of lights, I had a good old wind on the pre-load adjuster, and continued. However, this didn't make any difference, and upon repeating the adjustment, it seemed as though I could continue to wind the knob indefinitely, and it wasn't actually doing anything

I am assuming that it's fooked - is it new shock time, or is this a common problem, and an easy fix?

If I do change my rear shock, is it worth upgrading to something fancy? If so, what's recommended?

Is a short linkage worth fitting at the same time? - Does this lift the back end and sharpen up the steering a bit?

I suppose an alternative will just be to gradually grind down the stand on the roads as I go

Certainly wouldn't want to negotiate any hairpins in it's current state

Cheers, Rich

turboferret wrote:I am assuming that it's fooked - is it new shock time, or is this a common problem, and an easy fix?

Sounds like the preload adjuster is fooked. No clicks and no change in difference would confirm that. There is something like 42 clicks range though so might be worth checking. No easy fix AFAIK 'cos it's inside the shock.

turboferret wrote:If I do change my rear shock, is it worth upgrading to something fancy? If so, what's recommended?

Yes. Ohlins are popular but Maxton, Wilbers, WP and the like will all do a similar job, especially if they are sprung to suit your weight and riding requirements.

turboferret wrote:Is a short linkage worth fitting at the same time? - Does this lift the back end and sharpen up the steering a bit?

Yes. In fact this will be a quick fix for your current problem and you'll be amazed at the difference it makes.

HTH

Adam

I am very, very happy with my new E=MC ENDURANCE SHOCKS from Tim Rose. Once fitted it was like having a new bike, the change in handling was remarkable and for £550 for front and rear together it was half the price of Mr Ohlins etc. Check previous postings for Tim's number and other feedback. Call Tim and talk to hikm and you'll be converted,

Henry

Thanks for the info guys. Feel like a bit of a muppet now though, since upon closer inspection, the pre-load adjuster is in fact clicking as it rotates, and does eventually come to a stop.

Clearly whilst waiting at a set of traffic lights, engine running, pillioned and luggaged up isn't the best time to diagnose faults

However, even wound fully in to the max, the stand does still ground out very easily.

Short term I'll bung a shorter torque arm in, see how it goes, and contemplate some new shocks in the future

Does anyone have a short arm they fancy flogging me

Cheers, Rich

Hi Rich

I'm like you with standard suspension units, but I put a shorter paralever arm on the bike last year. It does make a difference and you'll notice how much sharper it feels into a turn, but the centre stand still scrapes on your favourite bends!

I only keep my centre stand on for practicality and took it off for obvious reasons when I did a track day last year.

I'd recommend fitting the shorter arm for sure.

Cheers
Geoff

I've been on the short arm and standard shock for about 14k with no probs. Whilst I have been told many times that a new shock will transform the bike, there is no dobubt in my mind that the shorter brace is the best value mod available. I got mine from Motorworks (0845 4580077) 'preused' for about 18 quid (+£2 can of silver spray paint from halfords ).

You need to be aware that the short arm plus centre stand can leave the rear wheel on the ground - which is ok if its absolutely flat but could cause a topple on uneven ground. To jack the rear wheel up a bit for tyre inspection etc I park on 3 carpet tiles in the garage and that does the trick.
harry.

Marvelous - was on the phone to Motorworks yesterday, and they only had new ones at about £68, hence why I thought I'd ask on here.

I thought that perhaps some of the guys who've fitted adjustable arms might have a short one knocking about.

Day to day I park the bike on the drive, which has just been re-gravelled, which often results in rather interesting 'moments' and the centre-stand doesn't currently lift the back wheel off the ground either, as it just disapears into the ground...

Cheers, Rich

How many clicks per turn are there supposed to be on the rr pre-load chaps?

My pre-load adjustor is very stiff and I can't feel it clicking - suspect it may need the magic of WD40 to help it out

I think that my adjuster had 1 click per revolution, and as others have said, 42 clicks from min to max.

The click is fairly subtle, and I didn't feel it first, but could hear it (without the engine, helmet and earplugs!)

That's on my 2000 S.

Cheers, Rich