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R1200S Neutral Light
Posted: Mon Nov 16, 2015 3:02 pm
by South Paw
Hi guys...
Its been a few years since I have been on here since selling my R1100S. I am about to purchase a R1200S but the seller is telling me the Neutral light switch is not illuminating.
The seller is telling me its not a big issue but I am little concerned.
Is the the R1200S neutral switch a Potentiometer or a simple switch?
I am not sure how concerned I should be?
Really looking forward to getting a R1200S.. and GS later in the year.
any advice appreciated..
Re: R1200S Neutral Light
Posted: Mon Nov 16, 2015 4:09 pm
by slparry
South Paw wrote:Hi guys...
Its been a few years since I have been on here since selling my R1100S. I am about to purchase a R1200S but the seller is telling me the Neutral light switch is not illuminating.
The seller is telling me its not a big issue but I am little concerned.
Is the the R1200S neutral switch a petentionometer or a simple switch?
I am not sure how concerned I should be?
Really looking forward to getting a R1200S.. and GS later in the year.
any advice appreciated..
Potentiometer
Hope this helps
http://www.motorcycleinfo.co.uk/index76 ... eId=418303
Posted: Mon Nov 16, 2015 5:03 pm
by Blackal
Could just be the lamp?
What happens when you snick it into gear with the sidestand down?
Al
Posted: Mon Nov 16, 2015 5:26 pm
by South Paw
I am hoping its just the lamp to be honest.
I will ask the seller to put it into gear with the side stand down...
Ask him if he can see the gear indicated and if the GPI shows the N in the lcd display. I dont know why I didnt think of that.
If it is the Potentiometer (spelling that always hurts) am I looking at a big bill?
Cheers
Al
Posted: Tue Nov 17, 2015 3:44 pm
by South Paw
Update...
Looks like the dealer is having to fit and calibrate a new potentiometer.
Placed my deposit.. looks like I am coming back to the fold with a toothpaste striped 1200S
I cannot wait.
Posted: Tue Nov 17, 2015 4:28 pm
by The Teutonic Tangerine
Pontiometer, pote shi, Potato.... .. the thing that sends the signals to the dash to tell you Nuetral and which gear you are in is expensive @ £125. To fit it requires you to move the swing arm backwards (so that you can get a spanner on the two holding nuts and withdraw the unit of the input shaft). Oh and by the way there is more than one type but they have the same part number. Some have a wire tail some don't some are for a D shaped input shaft and some are for a T shaped input shaftshaft. You can tell I've suffered can't you. Both types of shaft have both types of electrical input so that's a total of 4 variants and some of them are 180 degress out of wack for your bike. the only way is to remove yours and then get the right variant.
So let's hope the Stealer gets it right and doesn't bodge on the wrong unit.
Posted: Tue Nov 17, 2015 6:08 pm
by dave the german
Does the wire tailed variant fit the non wired? I thought the wired was an upgrade to make the job easier - you know, bolting the stable door after the horse has bolted like so many BM upgrades. Glancing at the repair manual, it looked straight forward. Guess I need to have another look and hope it doesn't happen to mine.
Some of the mileage at which components are failing is nothing short of crap really. Crankshaft oil seal went on my 12s at under 12 000 miles!!
Posted: Wed Nov 18, 2015 9:18 am
by The Teutonic Tangerine
dave the german wrote:Does the wire tailed variant fit the non wired? I thought the wired was an upgrade to make the job easier - you know, bolting the stable door after the horse has bolted like so many BM upgrades. Glancing at the repair manual, it looked straight forward. Guess I need to have another look and hope it doesn't happen to mine.
Some of the mileage at which components are failing is nothing short of crap really. Crankshaft oil seal went on my 12s at under 12 000 miles!!
As I say I believe tha there are 4 variants. I was sent completly the wrong one by a supplier in Yorkshire which I then busted when trying to make it fit (cos i didn't know that there were different shaped output shaft from the gearbox) the one they sent was for a T shaped shaft and came with a tail and was also 180 degrees adrift so when it registered neutal it would not bolt on to the box. When I phone the supplier in Devon he asked me is it D or T and does it have a tail or not - he said they all have the same part number . Net result I had to buy two to get one. an dno teh tail makes no difference to the ease if fitting you still have to effectively remove the swing arm (move it about two inches backwards not completly remove it).
Posted: Wed Nov 18, 2015 9:18 am
by The Teutonic Tangerine
dave the german wrote:Does the wire tailed variant fit the non wired? I thought the wired was an upgrade to make the job easier - you know, bolting the stable door after the horse has bolted like so many BM upgrades. Glancing at the repair manual, it looked straight forward. Guess I need to have another look and hope it doesn't happen to mine.
Some of the mileage at which components are failing is nothing short of crap really. Crankshaft oil seal went on my 12s at under 12 000 miles!!
As I say I believe tha there are 4 variants. I was sent completly the wrong one by a supplier in Yorkshire which I then busted when trying to make it fit (cos i didn't know that there were different shaped output shaft from the gearbox) the one they sent was for a T shaped shaft and came with a tail and was also 180 degrees adrift so when it registered neutal it would not bolt on to the box. When I phone the supplier in Devon he asked me is it D or T and does it have a tail or not - he said they all have the same part number . Net result I had to buy two to get one. an dno teh tail makes no difference to the ease if fitting you still have to effectively remove the swing arm (move it about two inches backwards not completly remove it).