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Removing the headers - R11S

Posted: Thu May 14, 2015 7:47 am
by Motocod
Thinking of polishing the headers - just wondering how much of a pig they are to remove? I'm thinking it might be easier than doing them in-situ.

Nik

Re: Removing the headers - R11S

Posted: Thu May 14, 2015 10:07 am
by beachcomber
Motocod wrote:Thinking of polishing the headers - just wondering how much of a pig they are to remove? I'm thinking it might be easier than doing them in-situ.

Nik
Good luck getting them off without destroying the exhaust flange studs / fixings !!!

Score to date - 12 bikes stripped down - 27 studs broken when tyring to remove exhaust !

Posted: Thu May 14, 2015 10:13 am
by dave the german
If you go ahead, try to tighten the nuts a little first (and lots of plusgas)

Posted: Thu May 14, 2015 10:28 am
by beachcomber
dave the german wrote:If you go ahead, try to tighten the nuts a little first (and lots of plusgas)
Dave we've tried every workshop trick known to man [ 50 years practice ], and STILL the results are uncertain !

Even heat is not the answer ...... the answer is to shoot the "designer" who decided to use the relevant steel materials for the fixings !

Even in the 30's / 40's the problem was known - and sidestepped, by using phosphur bronze, and then brass for the nuts. The problem was made worse with the common use of aluminium for the head [s].

I developed replacement stainless steel studs with brass nuts for my Kay projects.

We're currently checking out the availability of suitable fixings for our own Oilhead projects - probably the same as my Kay stuff.

We're still working on the best method of removing the broken fixings !

Posted: Thu May 14, 2015 12:11 pm
by Motocod
Thanks guys - I think I'll give it a miss then!

By the sounds of it the studs have a tendency to snap off?

Nik

Posted: Thu May 14, 2015 12:53 pm
by JamesL
On my 1150RS Andrew Sexton said he "nibbled" the exhaust nuts off, and I paid him at least a couple of hours labour to do it. And he's had years in the trade. I've never followed up what he meant, but I think it's basically using the sharpest most delicate thing you can find and taking it by tiny increments. Unless you know the nuts have been copper greased and regularly taken off I doubt it's even worth trying spanners. I've contemplated using a nut splitter on the GS headers, but never actually dared to try it. And once you have the nuts off, the condition of the studs can be pretty uncertain... Nightmare.

Conversely I cut off the exhaust nuts (and replaced) on the R100RS in 15 minutes a side with a hacksaw blade and some care. Hey ho for airheads!

Posted: Thu May 14, 2015 4:38 pm
by beachcomber
Motocod wrote:Thanks guys - I think I'll give it a miss then!

By the sounds of it the studs have a tendency to snap off?

Nik
Oh yes indeed !!!

"Nibbled " ??? Maybe spark erosion, which is one solution we're looking at as we have maybe 10 of the buggers to do.

To date we've been lucky - three have come out by welding a nut to the remaining stud, several with "easy outs" and the remainder by careful and time consuming drilling down the centre of the stud then using larger drills until you're kissing the thread. All are then chased out with a #3 tap and you're ready to start all over again !

At that stage we want to replace the components with compatible metals. So given the use of studs - stainless steel for them and then Brass nuts - there's a joke there about Monkeys and freezing weather ? That way you can be relatively certain that next time you want to remove the exhaust, you can knowing the studs aren't likely to snap off. 8)

Posted: Fri May 15, 2015 6:57 am
by tanneman
I can't remember how I got mine off. I think I put an impact drive on it. But true tighten it first a bit before loosening. Once I had it off I use copperslip on the studs and dome nuts every time, basically everywhere on the exhaust. Even after 2 years on the bike it still comes off without any sweat or swear.

Posted: Fri May 15, 2015 8:09 am
by beachcomber
tanneman wrote:I can't remember how I got mine off. I think I put an impact drive on it. But true tighten it first a bit before loosening. Once I had it off I use copperslip on the studs and dome nuts every time, basically everywhere on the exhaust. Even after 2 years on the bike it still comes off without any sweat or swear.
.

yes - slightly tightening [ after engine has been run up ] before attempting to undo, tapping the end of the fixing with a copper hammer ...................and more :wink:

Once they are off - clean threads with a rotary wire brush or similar [ if they are re-ususable ], dose up with Copperslip [ whatever ] and GTG for next time.