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Hi folks,

How much of a pain is it to take out the air filter? I assume all the front bodywork needs to come off - is this is fiddly as it looks?! I'm planning a full service next week, and the filter is overdue doing.

Thanks,

Nik

Yes, front body work, lift the tank a little bit to get a bit more space for ye tools. Fastners out, lift the intake tube off and remove the filter taking care not to drop any flies into the airbox.

You can of course remove the tank tank completely to make a proper job of it and wipe out any oil in the bottom of the airbox.

Suoer job, appreciate the reply and the diagrams, thank you!

Bodywork is not so bad once you have done it once. The visible screws are obvious but don't mix up the indicator pod screws with the others (they have plastic washers). With all the visible screws removed and the top toggle fixing undone you need to find the two concealed screws either side of the oil cooler aperture and the two hard to get at screws behind the BMW roundels.

Once all the screws are out simply lift the one half of bodywork up (can't remember if its left hand side or right hand side first but the toggle fixing will let you know) and away, remembering to disconnect the indicator lamp assembly from the pod (simply twist and pull) a third hand is always useful at this point to hold the bodywork.

With bodywork off lift the tank as described above. Always worth propping the rear of the tank up to give better access.

Good luck.

DT

As others have said it's not bad when you're used to it. I've whipped off my tank to keep the battery on a charger over winter. I don't have any plug sockets in my communal car park and for some reason the missus doesn't want it in the flat.

Depending on the service you might be needing to get in the fuel tank anyway to replace the fuel filter so you can make a proper day of it!

Funnily enough I did think I should do the fuel filter while I've got everything off - is it straightforward?

Thanks all, this forum is most excellent, as always!

Nik

Fairly straight forward but a bit awkward to get out and put back. Patience is a virtue. Do a search on here, this topic has been covered before but it is not a common service item. Every 18000mls I think.

Take a Valium...left side first, a fine blade to remove indicator lens's, turn out bulbs then have a flexible screwdriver to access screws behind BMW roundels and at front of fairing. Hole in hook shaped thing left of orange bulb is back of roundel.
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When replacing panels, only breathe on the indicator pod screws - the plastic cracks really easy - BMW have managed to crack mine on 3 occasions!!

Thank you for all the advise gents, really appreciated!

Can't be as bad as my old air cooled Multistrada - the tank extended the entire length of the bike and when practiced it took 45 min to remove. Mine was a bad one so I was well practiced...!

cheers,

Nik

Motocod wrote:Funnily enough I did think I should do the fuel filter while I've got everything off - is it straightforward?

Thanks all, this forum is most excellent, as always!

Nik

I managed it without any issues the first time. There's a couple of helpful videos I watched (one is about the GS but the internals of the tank are the same).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1bl3H89xtS8
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9VDs3YrIZoo

Mitch1100 wrote:Take a Valium...left side first, a fine blade to remove indicator lens's, turn out bulbs then have a flexible screwdriver to access screws behind BMW roundels and at front of fairing. Hole in hook shaped thing left of orange bulb is back of roundel.

I found it much easier to unplug the indicators where they connect to the loom, on either side of the front fairing frame (although it's also very easy to forget to plug them back in again!)

metropolis2k wrote:

Motocod wrote:Funnily enough I did think I should do the fuel filter while I've got everything off - is it straightforward?

Thanks all, this forum is most excellent, as always!

Nik

I managed it without any issues the first time. There's a couple of helpful videos I watched (one is about the GS but the internals of the tank are the same).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1bl3H89xtS8
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9VDs3YrIZoo

Thanks for that. I see the fuel pipes have those stupid clips that are fiddly as hell to re-attach... Starting to think it might be a job to avoid for that very reason!

Nik

I did the fuel filter but it is a bit of a phaff. A cup of tea is your best tool when trying to reinsert the pump into the tank. Talk about a Chinese puzzle The only think that gets you through is knowing that were able to take it out in the first place.

I was also going to fit quick release connectors to the fuel lines but gave up as I couldn't find enough room to site them. In reality the tank needs to come off so infrequently that it is just as easy to stay with the original design.

Don't forget to polish the alloy tank to a mirror finish before you put the bodywork back on

Motocod wrote: Thanks for that. I see the fuel pipes have those stupid clips that are fiddly as hell to re-attach... Starting to think it might be a job to avoid for that very reason!

Nik

Ah yes, my GS has those and they're a pain. Fortunately my BCR has quick disconnects (metal, not plastic). I must fit them on the GS at some point.