Honda Suspension link question

nab 301 · Post by **nab 301** » Wed Dec 10, 2014 3:20 pm

Any suggestions for lubing the bolt (where it slides through the sleeve) in the photo below? Honda recommend Molybdenum disulphide grease I think for the bearings . I have that or marine type grease or copper grease. What would be best for the bolt? It was seized quite badly. , I have seals and bearings to fit also. Lots of contradictions on other forums....

Topcat · Post by **Topcat** » Wed Dec 10, 2014 3:53 pm

So the sleeve fits through the shock mount, through the eye of the shock (with needle roller bearings inside) and out the other side of the shock mount?

Same as on on our old 955i Tiger.

I would just use general purpose grease on the bolt shank only, keeping the thread clean, fit it and torque up then cover grease over the nut and any exposed thread and the bolt head.

I theory, it is only holding the sleeve in place around which the shock bearing pivots so you are just trying to stop corrosion.

Most likely a load of bo**ox but that’s what I think anyway!

Had to strip the Tigers and re grease the lower shock bearing fairly regular as it had a habit of drying out and squeaking! Keeping the bolt greased helped.

nab 301 · Post by **nab 301** » Wed Dec 10, 2014 7:24 pm

Topcat wrote:So the sleeve fits through the shock mount, through the eye of the shock (with needle roller bearings inside) and out the other side of the shock mount?

.

It's a multi link set up , the bolt in question is under the swingarm , it was seized to the sleeve and the shock bolt was just seized to the shock thread.
Ended up removing the swing arm in the end . The original 10 min job was to remove the shock ....

Topcat · Post by **Topcat** » Thu Dec 11, 2014 9:43 am

Is that similar to the Bandit linkage setup then?

nab 301 · Post by **nab 301** » Thu Dec 11, 2014 8:27 pm

It's an Fx 650

The linkage is a bit more complex than the Bandit I think , which reminds me I better have a look at that too....

http://www.oemmotorparts.eu/oem4.asp?M= ... =HO-FX650Y

Topcat · Post by **Topcat** » Fri Dec 12, 2014 8:57 am

At least it has dust seals, one up on the Bandit (unless mine is missing something).

I still think you are only trying to stop corrosion but a thicker grease may stand up to the road crud a bit longer.

Tapio · Post by **Tapio** » Sat Dec 13, 2014 4:41 pm

I don't think it's very important to have a certain type of grease in there.
Any ”goo” that you have in handy will do.

Some reflections (note: these are_my_reflections) on greases:

Molybdenum disulphide grease
In engineering, it's a big no-no to have two metals of equal hardness to come in contact with each other. Crankshaft bearings are a good example of this. Crank is hard, and the bearings are soft. If hard debris comes in between crank and bearing, the debris won't make a scratch mark in the surfaces. Instead, the crank forces the debris into the soft bearing metal making it harmless.
But in practice, often, you cannot avoid it.
If you have two equally hard surfaces with a relative movement, then you use MoS2 to give the surfaces a lenient run-in. How/why does it work? I have no idea. All i know is that you choose MoS2 over regular grease when you have new parts that need to be broken-in.

Marine grease
regular grease is only partly a petroleum product. If subjected to high temp, it will separate into oil and, ehh... soap. The parts that are not petroleum will be dissolved by water. My guess is that marine grade grease contains non-petroleum parts that don't mix with water.
And another guess is that its' lubricating properties aren't as good as with regular greas. I mean: everything has a price, doesn't it?

Copper grease
don't like the stuff. I believe it should only be used in high temp applications. Like a cast iron exhaust manifold on a car. Or maybe brake parts. I prefer to use aluminum paste.

Corvus · Post by **Corvus** » Sat Dec 13, 2014 5:33 pm

Useful little read (I thought)

http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Rea ... ase-basics

nab 301 · Post by **nab 301** » Sat Dec 13, 2014 7:15 pm

Thanks for the replies , i'll probably just use my favourite gloopy stuff ..

Blackal · Post by **Blackal** » Sat Dec 13, 2014 7:27 pm

I'd use an EP2 grease - due to the lack of rotation and high loads.

http://fuelandfriction.com/weekend-warr ... se-part-1/

Al

Corvus · Post by **Corvus** » Sat Dec 13, 2014 8:32 pm

I thought the stone age was over.

What a remarkable and fascinating substance. A maverick among metals.

http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lithium

Blackal · Post by **Blackal** » Sat Dec 13, 2014 8:44 pm

Corvus wrote:I thought the stone age was over.

What a remarkable and fascinating substance. A maverick among metals.

http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lithium

What? EP2?

Al

Corvus · Post by **Corvus** » Sat Dec 13, 2014 8:51 pm

Blackal wrote:
Corvus wrote:I thought the stone age was over.

What a remarkable and fascinating substance. A maverick among metals.

http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lithium
What? EP2?

Al

Sorry, no. I just got carried away.

http://www.answers.com/Q/What_is_the_me ... k_language

Tapio · Post by **Tapio** » Sat Dec 13, 2014 9:20 pm

ehh...
EP means Extreme Pressures.
it's an additive to greases.

Blackal · Post by **Blackal** » Sat Dec 13, 2014 9:44 pm

Tapio wrote:ehh...
EP means Extreme Pressures.
it's an additive to greases.

Are you saying that you should buy the additive - and mix your own grease?

All constituent parts to a lubricant - are "additives"........

Ehh..........

Al