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Poor running R1200S
Posted: Tue Nov 04, 2014 1:05 pm
by Topcat
Having a long term problem with my R1200S.
Starts fine, runs fine when moving but once fully warm, runs very rough at tickover. If it was a two stroke, I’d swear it’s about to seize! Ticks over fine when just started and not too warm. It’s a pain to ride slow in traffic but fine when moving again.
It’s been into CW for a service with the fault but they can’t find anything wrong; been into Grahams in Taunton (BMW specialist) for service and to check the fault but still no joy. Stick coils all okay according to both. After a service, it seems to be fine for a few trips but quickly reverts. This may be due to the fact that the bike is not fully warm when I’ve brought it home.
Got up early one Saturday to take it out to get it hot and then into Graham’s but the day was pouring with rain and the bloody thing ran fine all the time! I think it is temp related.
One of the last runs out to Minehead, it did its usual as I parked up so used the kill switch and stopped it then restarted and it briefly ran fine then back to what has become normal. Repeated and it did the same.
Getting fed up with it now. I was hoping to re arrange the fleet next year and trade my 1250 Bandit for something else and use the R12 and the K13 for commuting in summer and my old 600 Bandit in the winter. But as it is, the R12 is a real pain in the arse in traffic and I wouldn't dare use it London.
I can’t be certain when the fault started, that is, before or after I fitted the HPE exhaust but I am beginning to think Lambda probes. I had one of our sparkies at work extend the cables on the existing Lambda’s to make them fit neater but fear this may be the problem?
Any other ideas?
Thanks chaps
Dave
Posted: Tue Nov 04, 2014 6:50 pm
by Grip Fast
'Fraid I can't help, but I share an interest in your problem because my R1200S is similar but maybe not as bad as yours. Mine sometimes fails to tick over smoothly and occasionally stalls completely, which is a real pain in town.
This problem also occurs when hot and the coil sticks all seem good.
So, if you get an answer, I would like to know what it is and I'll let you know if I get to the bottom of it. Some days (cold, clear days) it runs a treat and it is a beautiful bike to ride, so I'd be reluctant to change.
Posted: Tue Nov 04, 2014 8:03 pm
by Topcat
Will do, if no other suggestions come up I may just splash out on some new O2 sensors and see what happens.
Failing that, its back to standard!
Same here regards cold weather, it runs better. On hot days, it can be hard to keep it running so mine would most likely stall as well.
I will keep you informed.
Dave
Posted: Tue Nov 04, 2014 9:20 pm
by popsky
Hi Dave and Grip Fast
Can't help with your specific problem but I've been running the accelerator module, cheap and cheerfull I know but it's been on for over 20K with no adverse affects and deffo no stalling/lumpy running.
This is there site, I use the simple module
http://www.sol2.be/
Posted: Tue Nov 04, 2014 11:02 pm
by nab 301
Topcat wrote:Will do, if no other suggestions come up I may just splash out on some new O2 sensors and see what happens.
Dave
Some info here or long story short , disconnect them.
viewtopic.php?t=10051&highlight=sensor
Posted: Tue Nov 04, 2014 11:08 pm
by ted
hi, i have the HPE front pipes and straight through carbon cans on my R1200 s. I already had the temp sensor mod before i put the exhaust on. I have had no issues but didnt extend the sensor wires - i just teased more length by cutting the cable ties at various points.
My limited understanding is that the lampa sensors have the ability to weaken the mixture but only at a constant throttle. That said, if they are reading incorrect due to the wires being extended - who knows. i would guess that any increase in resistance due to the increase in length may cause an issue.
Is there any nice tricksters local who will lend you theirs to try?
Posted: Wed Nov 05, 2014 7:56 am
by Topcat
Nigel, thank you for the info, hadn’t read that thread. Had seen another re the sensors on R11’s
viewtopic.php?t=11301&highlight=lambda
which seemed to have similar problems. It also went on to say that the Lambda’s do more than just work at a constant throttle so was a little reluctant to just remove them. Having said that, that’s exactly what I have done if the things are not working!
Apart from the poor fuel consumption, symptoms spot on!
Phil / Ted, I too have the accelerator module which I fitted in a vain hope of making the bike better, which it didn’t but strangely after that the fuel usage seemed to improve.
My problem is that I don’t use that bike enough and now I think about it, the problem has been rumbling on for about 4 years and I forget what happened when!
Will try removing the probes and blanking off first and report back this weekend if I get round to it. Anyone know what size thread the probes are?
Many thanks for the help chaps!
Dave
Posted: Wed Nov 05, 2014 7:05 pm
by herrman
Hi,
I would certainly recommend trying the bike without the sensors--Just disconnect for a trial run. Five and a half years on and I still have the blanking plugs in and the bike runs as well as ever.
Peter.
Posted: Wed Nov 05, 2014 7:08 pm
by 1200boxer
I'm finding this thread very interesting but have no idea what stick coils are.Can someone enlighten me?
Posted: Wed Nov 05, 2014 8:14 pm
by Topcat
Thanks Peter, I'll give that a go first.
Stick coils, I believe, are the modern replacements for the big coils that used to sit under the tank on the old bikes (see Blackals post ' Build your own tazer' under Humour for what the old coils look like!).
A thin coil that sits above the spark plugs hence no need for HT leads going to the plugs. I think that is right.
Do a search on here and there are a few pictures.
Dave
Posted: Sun Nov 09, 2014 4:15 pm
by Topcat
Ok, so, disconnected the Lambda probes and took it for a spin. Not much difference when moving along but big difference when in traffic and ticking over.
Not what I remember it being like when I first had it but much better than it has been. Looks like it is the Lambda probes. Think I'll replace them and see if it improves it again.
Here's hoping Santa’s gonna bring some new ones?!

Posted: Sun Nov 09, 2014 5:39 pm
by Grip Fast
Sounds promising TC. I tried to disconnect mine but couldn't get the plugs apart. Did you just disconnect them at the first connector? Light was not good, so couldn't see if there is a clip or catch to release to unplug the lambdas.
Pity they are so expensive though...
Posted: Sun Nov 09, 2014 5:58 pm
by Topcat
Yes, at the first connection back from the probe. Then just taped them together with a bit of plastic over the two to keep them clean.
The bike side is the plug with a little tab on the probe side that releases the two.
The probe side is fixed to the bike on a slide type thing, push the whole lot FORWARD, sorry, and it comes away from the mount.
Not to bad on Motorworks, about £80 each. Not cheap I know but less than a set of tyres.

If it makes the bike work, I can cope with that.
I'm too old to be laying on my back to do this sort of thing but it was worth it.
Regards
Dave
12s
Posted: Sat Nov 15, 2014 7:29 pm
by west11
Hi, I don't wish to hi-jack this thread, but my name is Julian & I own BitzaBikes, Taunton, and I also have an R12S that has had pretty similar running problems in the past.
You say that has been to see Uncle Graham recently, do you know if he had your idle control valves out, and re-set their operation, because that is where the fault was with mine. I ended up replacing the left one, and the problem has been pretty much solved. Even now, it will still drop on to one cylinder occasionally at idle, I don't think I will ever quite cure that one!
Hope this helps
Posted: Sat Nov 15, 2014 10:22 pm
by Topcat
Well Hello Bitza bikes,
I think Graham had the idle controls out but will ask when in next time to make sure.
With the O2 probes dis-connected, it ran better, no question but open to any other solutions!
Thanks for the heads up.
Good to know another R1200S owner in Somerset.
You listening Phil, someone else to pester
