Page 1 of 2

advice needed, R1100s stopped running

Posted: Fri Jun 13, 2014 9:47 pm
by Duggers
Hi everyone, I need to pick your collective brains

After 60k trouble free miles my 1100s stopped on the way home tonight. While I was riding the engine cut out, felt like no fuel or spark. The taco zeroed before I pulled over. Once stopped the bike will crank OK but will not fire. One two ocassions it started and ran fine but after switching off would not restart. The bike does not make the whiring noise it normally makes when you turn on the ignition (fuel pump?)

Going to strip the bodywork off tomorrow and check for fuses, servos, loose wires etc but any pointers on what to check first?

Thanks
Ian

Posted: Fri Jun 13, 2014 9:49 pm
by Blackal
Not suffered the same, but if you aren't getting the fuel pump priming on switch-on....... the fuel pump would be my first choice.

Al

Posted: Sat Jun 14, 2014 8:01 am
by slparry
Fuel pump fuse would be my first port of call

Posted: Sat Jun 14, 2014 8:29 am
by oyster
What happens when you first turn the key to 'on'? Any dash lights? Pump noise? Old favourite is the loose wire on the bottom of the ignition barrel. Or the wires chaffed through under the left fairing panel.

Posted: Sat Jun 14, 2014 9:37 am
by Duggers
Going to look now, everything else seems fine dash, horn etc all work. Only odd thing is speedo needle occasionally moves about.

Will update once stripped down, that's the bike not me..

Posted: Sat Jun 14, 2014 10:18 am
by ned1
Could be a wiring problem by the sound of it.
good luck :?

Posted: Sat Jun 14, 2014 10:57 am
by Duggers
OK, so stripped off the bike, no sign of loose or chaffed wires, took out connectors and solenoids from left hand pod, all clean and dry. Replaced everything and its back to normal, fuel pump arms every time and runs perfectly.

Now I have no idea what it was!

Posted: Sat Jun 14, 2014 1:10 pm
by tanneman
Did you disturb the connectors like unplugging it, and did you pull out any fuses? Then you may just have cleaned off any oxidization on the metal contact. Usually the answer but if it happens again then there is a fault. It is a good idea to clean your connectors, conductors when you have such an intermittent fault. Also check that the battery terminals is tight and did not vibrate loose. Can happen sometimes and a pain to fix next to the side of the road.

Posted: Sat Jun 14, 2014 3:14 pm
by GerryB
tanneman wrote:Did you disturb the connectors like unplugging it, and did you pull out any fuses? Then you may just have cleaned off any oxidization on the metal contact. Usually the answer but if it happens again then there is a fault. It is a good idea to clean your connectors, conductors when you have such an intermittent fault. Also check that the battery terminals is tight and did not vibrate loose. Can happen sometimes and a pain to fix next to the side of the road.
I had a fault on a Suzuki many years ago ...

Kept dying for no reason .

I was sitting on the side of the road puzzling .... & I shook the battery wires .... the negative was slightly loose ....

Tightened it as best I could with my leatherman .... bike started & never missed a beat ...

That was a lesson .....

Posted: Sat Jun 14, 2014 5:20 pm
by Duggers
tanneman wrote:Did you disturb the connectors like unplugging it, and did you pull out any fuses? Then you may just have cleaned off any oxidization on the metal contact. Usually the answer but if it happens again then there is a fault. It is a good idea to clean your connectors, conductors when you have such an intermittent fault. Also check that the battery terminals is tight and did not vibrate loose. Can happen sometimes and a pain to fix next to the side of the road.
That's the thing, yes I did unplug them all and subsequent testing showed that unplugged, a few components stop the fuel pump arming but all the connectors looked like they had just left the factory. Unless the oxidisation is on the female connectors only.

Can't see it being the battery tetminals as there was never an issue with it turning over.

Still, if it happens again I have a fair idea how to get going again and won't have to wait two hours for the RAC man to say "I know nothing about bikes" then walk away

Posted: Sat Jun 14, 2014 5:53 pm
by nab 301
It could be the Hall sensor or its wiring? Symptoms can be pump not priming from what I've read over the years.

Posted: Mon Jun 16, 2014 1:03 pm
by Duggers
Bike behaved itself on the way to work today but refused to start again once parked up. Off with the panels and jiggled about in the left hand relay pod with no success. Touched the wires to the fuse pod, the fuel pump whired and the bike fired up.

I assumed it must be a broken wire in the harness, I work not far from Jap and German so popped down there to get it looked at, one dodgy fuse later and it all seems fine.. Why do I always forget to check the simple things first?

Anyway, fingers crossed for the journey home.

Posted: Sun Jun 29, 2014 9:25 pm
by Duggers
The bike does not like Fridays. Stopped again this week, this time the fuse is OK. Suspect it's the hall sensor after all.

:roll:

Posted: Thu Jul 03, 2014 8:10 am
by Duggers
Just got the bike back from Jap and German and the fault was the fuel pump itself.

It was a bit of an odd one as the fuel pump would work fine when off of the bike and connected direct to the battery but refused to run when in situ. they swapped it out for a new fuel pump and it whirred into life right away.

Posted: Thu Jul 03, 2014 11:42 am
by Corvus
Duggers wrote:Just got the bike back from Jap and German and the fault was the fuel pump itself.

It was a bit of an odd one as the fuel pump would work fine when off of the bike and connected direct to the battery but refused to run when in situ. they swapped it out for a new fuel pump and it whirred into life right away.
Maybe it refused to work when loaded against a pressure head?

Either way, your bike is working again. Good do.