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Best way to support a R12S when swapping final drive oil?
Posted: Wed Apr 10, 2013 8:51 pm
by StreetFlatTwin
Yes I know an abba stand but as I'm doing it tomorrow I'm looking for best suggestions as to where to support with trolley jack?
Swingarm? Bottom shock mount or rear y piece of the exhaust?
It will be slung up to the garage rafters as a safety measure but I'd prefer it not to be swinging bout from side to side!! So going to use a trolley jack for a bit is support but where?
Stripped and ready for the main event!!
I've used the exhausts on most of my past bikes with a piece of wood to spread the weight and try and not damage them.
Suggestion tonight please.....or there might be a sorry tale to tell by tomorrow night!

Posted: Wed Apr 10, 2013 9:30 pm
by gus
Hi
Axle stands under the footpegs or under the cylinders. Use some sponge or rags to protect them.
Gus
Posted: Wed Apr 10, 2013 9:37 pm
by StreetFlatTwin
I'm probably being thick but the footless pivot upwards so how will they support the bike???
Will the cylinders not be too far forward??
I used axel stands on my mates Tuono (in the background of this photo) using a threaded bar through the hollow swingarm spindle but no such luck on the R12S!!
I have axel stands so its no problem if I could figure out where to stick them!!!
Posted: Thu Apr 11, 2013 12:12 am
by gus
I forgot I had fixed pegs on my 1100s when I used axle stands. Try to get them under the hanger instead.
Gus
Posted: Thu Apr 11, 2013 9:14 am
by Herb
I have just been to have a look at mine, and I cant really see anywhere that you could jack and be sure of reasonable stability. I reckon you could use axle stands under the footrest hangers, as suggested by Gus.
I would not jack against the exhaust. You would be gutted if anything cracked or deformed.
Posted: Thu Apr 11, 2013 11:04 am
by Dog Tyred
Silly question but why can't you drain the final drive oil out with the rear paddock stand in place?
DT
OOppss forget that question. Just seen the procedure
Why didn't they just put the drain plug at the bottom
DT
Posted: Thu Apr 11, 2013 12:27 pm
by Boxered
Dog Tyred wrote:
Why didn't they just put the drain plug at the bottom
DT
The daft idea was that they were "sealed for life, maintenance free"
its just that the "life" was only 10k as it turns out
Steve
Posted: Thu Apr 11, 2013 12:46 pm
by Herb
Boxered wrote:Dog Tyred wrote:
Why didn't they just put the drain plug at the bottom
DT
The daft idea was that they were "sealed for life, maintenance free"
its just that the "life" was only 10k as it turns out
Steve
Sealed for life became.....600 mile service, then sealed for life, became.....600 mile service, then every 6k miles after that.
I do mine every year, as one £10 bottle of oil does 5 changes. The quantity of oil was reduced as well at some point, from 220ml to 180ml iirc (check those quants against the service instruction before you take my word for it cos I could have the figure wrong.)
It was a monumental cock up by BMW.
Posted: Thu Apr 11, 2013 3:45 pm
by Droptarotter
Is there any way you can butt the front wheel up against something and then use tie downs to secure the front end? That would stabilize the bike.
Then use a jack ( I use a scissor jack) to lift the rear of the bike by placing it under the front of the swing arm.
It's easy for me when using a Handy lift with the front wheel vise.
If you want to swing by, we can do the oil change on my lift.
Cheers
Posted: Thu Apr 11, 2013 5:31 pm
by dave the german
Some form of syphoning?
Posted: Thu Apr 11, 2013 6:46 pm
by Herb
dave the german wrote:Some form of syphoning?
That's what moto scot does, who services some people's bikes from here.
He uses a syringe and a flexible tube, pushed down to the bottom of the drive. The tube has to be flexible and you rotate the drive to pull the tube to the bottom of the housing.
Posted: Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:46 pm
by StreetFlatTwin
Droptqrotter-thanks for the offer but I live in Scotland so by the time I reached Canada It would need about her final drive change!!
I think I'll jack it up under the bottom shock mount-but I'll let you know how I get on!!
Thanks for your thought......it's been postponed until tomorrow!!
Posted: Fri Apr 12, 2013 7:43 am
by Dog Tyred
Boxered wrote:Dog Tyred wrote:
Why didn't they just put the drain plug at the bottom
DT
The daft idea was that they were "sealed for life, maintenance free"
its just that the "life" was only 10k as it turns out
Steve
'Sealed for life' doesn't seem to apply to the HP2 as the drain plug is most certainly right at the bottom. Something to do with the the race bike maybe?
DT
Posted: Fri Apr 12, 2013 8:48 am
by Boxered
I think by the time production of the HP2S started they had realised the error of their ways, same applies to later GS models I believe.
Steve
Posted: Fri Apr 12, 2013 3:01 pm
by StreetFlatTwin
Well I managed it without any mishaps. For future reference I used ratchet straps as my emergency support and initially jacked up the bike using a trolley jack under the swingarm (with a piece of wood to stop it getting scratched) just enough to allow me to slip axel stands underneath both sides of the lowest part of the frame here
Which actually supported the bike fairly well.
The rest of the job was easy using a large 60ml string to replace the oil! It's alway good to see parts of your bike for the 1st time to give you piece of mind. The shaft and UJ's looked immaculate
Bike all washed and ready for my trip in 3 weeks...900 miles right round the north coast of Scotland-can't wait!!
Thanks for all of your advice as suggestions
