www.boxertrix.com

Dog Tyred wrote:
.......... don't worry about it........

DT

I'm not worried about it.

Hopefully my tendency to irritate didn't frustrate you sufficiently to want to abandon ship! Apologies if so.

Dog Tyred wrote:

Corvus wrote:
Looks like a metalastik bush? Doesn't really change any of my comments, or the general line of discussion as far as I can see? The bolt clamps the inner steel bush within the metalastik bush (if that is what it is) and so has to withstand the loads imposed upon it.

oK I'm back in

I give in as I have no idea what you are talking about. Just use the bloody thing and don't worry about it as I'm sure BMW have it covered.

DT

I'm not.I'm pretty sure the thing is badly done.

Has anyone heard of this bolt failing in service ? Don't think so, so it must be OK.

DT

Three pages on a measly bolt???

This should be posted on the ADVRider WTF thread!

1200boxer wrote:Am I wrong or is that an articulated joint?As the swinging arm moves up and down the final drive housing pivots on the pivot pins which means that the torque arm cannot be ridigly attachet to it.

Is the bush a metalastik bush? If so then the rubber portion will do the "articulating". The steel sleeve up the middle will then be clamped tight by the bolt, so the bolt clamps the "clevis" (or forked end) tightly. The metalastik bush outer steel sleeve will be a press (interference) fit in the housing. This all assumes that it is a metalastik bush of course. I don't know if it is, but it looks like it might be.

Corvus, just to keep this thread going a couple more pages

The BMW parts catalogue for R1200S simply refers to this component as a 'Rubber mounting' but the image would suggest it is a metalastic bush so you are spot on.

With regard to the bolt the catalogue states this is an M10 X 55 10.9 grade bolt so very high tensile steel. If you are going to change it make sure it is with the same grade or higher!!

Interestingly the bush is not shown as a separate component for the R1100S but the 11RS also shows a 'rubber mounting'

DT

interesting bolt thread.......

Hayden wrote:interesting bolt thread.......

But bolts got slightly less interesting for me when we unceremoniously dumped the superb 55 degree Whitworth threadform
A thread which had served the Country and Empire since 1841.
Replaced in an instant for the European, and frankly more common 60degree metric standard.
Bloody common market!





IMHO

Hayden wrote:interesting bolt thread.......

Sod off! There's bugger all else being discussed on here at the moment

DT

Dog Tyred wrote:

Hayden wrote:interesting bolt thread.......

Sod off! There's bugger all else being discussed on here at the moment

DT

Merecat wrote:

Hayden wrote:interesting bolt thread.......

But bolts got slightly less interesting for me when we unceremoniously dumped the superb 55 degree Whitworth threadform
A thread which had served the Country and Empire since 1841.
Replaced in an instant for the European, and frankly more common 60degree metric standard.
Bloody common market!





IMHO

So true. But let's hear it for the good old BSP thread. 55 of the finest imperial degrees. And the Germans recognise this thread in their din standards, although they just refer to it as whitworth. Obviously have difficulty with the "bs" in BSP.

Rohrgewinde innit.

Must admit, pipe threads aside, I am a massive fan of the metric system.

Dog Tyred wrote:?..............Interestingly the bush is not shown as a separate component for the R1100S but the 11RS also shows a 'rubber mounting'

DT

Probably because no bugger can get em out! Titus Aducksass.

[/quote]
Must admit, pipe threads aside, I am a massive fan of the metric system.[/quote]

Even though i'm familiar with UNC/UNF, i prefer metric threads too.
There's a nice feature with them when you fabricate stuff.

Common threads:
M6x1: drill bit size: 5 mm
M8x1.25: drill bit size: 6.8 mm
M10x1.5: drill bit size: 8.5 mm
M12x1.75:drill bit size: 10.2 mm

As you can see: thread size=drill bit size + thread pitch
This goes for all metric threads.

You need to drill/tap a hole for a screw, but don't know what size drill bit? Just grab your vernier calipers and measure the thread pitch. Subtract it from the thread size, and there you have it!

This is also very convenient when you want to turn an internal thread on a lathe, for instance.
Let's say you want to do a M60x3 internal thread. Then you will know that the ID needs to be turned to 57 mm before you start making the thread.

Thanks Tapio, really useful stuff

Assuming of coarse you have a 6.8mm, 8.5mm or 10.2mm drill bit !!

DT

Dog Tyred wrote:Thanks Tapio, really useful stuff

Assuming of coarse you have a 6.8mm, 8.5mm or 10.2mm drill bit !!

DT

Yip. Summed up perfectly by tapio. A great system.

DT. The tapping drills are a must in anyone's man shed. Impossible to imagine life without em. Buy dormer, they last for ages.

On the subject of unified threads, there's also the little known UNEF too. That could have you scratching your head trying to figure out what the hell it is.

I don't know who first thought of using a helix to hold things together, but I'd like to raise my glass to him/her. Genius.