www.boxertrix.com

Blackal wrote:I've always tried to use an appropriately-sized socket to press out/in bearings.

Won't deform- squeeze it in/out in the vice, or smack it if necessary.....


Al

I agree Al but not too worried about deforming it on the way out. I think the swing arm bearings on my SR 500 are prone to seizing in position and apparently the rawl bolt tip has been used to good effect

I know this thread is a few years old but I just wanted to add to the info contained rather than start a whole new one.

Here is an example of how NOT to modify your final drive pivot bushes.

Some previous owner had removed the needle bearings and pressed two bronze bushes into the needle bearing cups, relying on the anodised aluminium stub on the pivot bolt to act as the internal part of the bearing. Might have been ok when it was done but over time it has caused galvanic action between the dissimilar metals and eroded away the aluminium part. This has caused the pair to seize together and this morning the end sheared off, which in turn caused the other side (which had not yet corroded but was on it's way) to also snap off leaving me with a floating rear hub.

Thankfully I was not moving fast and managed to limp home. The failure and subsequent slow ride home has pushed the bronze bush through he back of the bearing cup so now I need new pivot bolts, new bearings and new bearing cups both sides of the hub and I'm lucky not to have had a serious accident.

Jesus, that looks bad

PARALEVER PIVOT BEARING REPAIR KIT

Kit comes with new upgraded greasable pivot pins with removable grease nipples.

Pivot pins are made of hard, anodised 7075 Aluminium Alloy which has the strength of Steel with the lightness of alloy. Used in high stress structural parts, it also has good corrosion resistance compared to other alloys. This material is used in aircraft and military applications.

The copper bushes are straight cut and deeper than the original tapered BMW needle bearing type and can be greased on a regular basis.

Wow, I didn't realise this was a commercial set you can buy and fit, although I was marvelling at the hardening work on the cups. Mine are not like the current ones on sale they don't have the radial groove nor the cross-drilling. I also didn't get any grease nipples with the bike nor had any clue they were fitted at all.

The original items might wear the bearings and get loose but they don't fail catastrophically like mine did. Those folks need to do some homework on metallurgy AND consider long-term use/change of ownership before putting people's lives at risk. If I was carrying the wife as pillion or doing any sort of speed who knows what might have happened.

I've just replaced mine with these
http://www2.munichmotorcycles.com.au/pr ... ts_id=5533

That's the exact same set that failed catastrophically on my bike.

HI Pete,
Sorry but they are the current ones on sale,so as you say not like yours.
They are very popular here, and no-one at the club has had any complaints. One thing though is the torque setting, it should be 11NM not 7, check Chris Harris on youtube for info.

They are the same item except for having extra lube grooves. Obviously having the extra grooves means that they must have had failures on the originals (as I did) or they would have no reason to change the design.

Either way, the big problem with them is the mode of failure. The originals go slack and you can easily discern when they need changing. These just seize and shear off. I had no idea they were fitted and no tell-tale play to make me look at them. No grease nipples supplied either.

dave the german wrote:Got a bike lift earlier this month - waited til the VAT free Sunday at Machine Mart and saved £70 - still cost £370 tho but brilliant even just for cleaning the underside of the bike

just used my Abba Stand to replace the bevel box - Collapsed as i was torqing
the last pin, bike now laying on its l/h side for the last few days!

bikerboy wrote:

dave the german wrote:Got a bike lift earlier this month - waited til the VAT free Sunday at Machine Mart and saved £70 - still cost £370 tho but brilliant even just for cleaning the underside of the bike

just used my Abba Stand to replace the bevel box - Collapsed as i was torqing
the last pin, bike now laying on its l/h side for the last few days!

How did it collapse? I thought the ABBA stand was a fairly solid piece of kit

dave the german wrote:

bikerboy wrote:

dave the german wrote:Got a bike lift earlier this month - waited til the VAT free Sunday at Machine Mart and saved £70 - still cost £370 tho but brilliant even just for cleaning the underside of the bike

just used my Abba Stand to replace the bevel box - Collapsed as i was torqing
the last pin, bike now laying on its l/h side for the last few days!

How did it collapse? I thought the ABBA stand was a fairly solid piece of kit

seems the R/H part buckled & has a crack - used this stand from new 2yrs+

Get in touch with them - according to their website they have a 3 year guarantee:

http://www.abbastands.co.uk/product-det ... tand&pid=1

(Click on the FAQ tab and see question 9)

McBoxer wrote:Get in touch with them - according to their website they have a 3 year guarantee:

http://www.abbastands.co.uk/product-det ... tand&pid=1

(Click on the FAQ tab and see question 9)

Thanks McBoxer - just awaiting reply from them - purchased mine 5-2-14