www.boxertrix.com

StreetFlatTwin wrote:Just one question if I am hooking it up to the trickle charger can I set the alarm???

I've never had a problem (or had issues caused) setting an alarm whilst a bike has been on my optimate.

Do not use WD40 for long term it's crap.

Use ACF50

Yeah but surely WD40 is OK if the bike is washed and dried before being stored in a nice dry garage and won't be ridden again until spring?





Or will I just buy some ACF50???

StreetFlatTwin wrote:Yeah but surely WD40 is OK if the bike is washed and dried before being stored in a nice dry garage and won't be ridden again until spring?

Or will I just buy some ACF50???

WD40 is funny stuff - it starts off as hyrdrophobic (ie water-repelling) then after 10-14 days' exposure to air undergoes a chemical change where it becomes hydrophillic (ie water-attracting). Fine for lubricating things/freeing off the odd nut and bolt every so often but as a protectant, leave it well alone.

An RAF aircraft airframes technician told me this and it was he who first made me aware of ACF50.

Really???

Thanks for that-I never knew that!!

ACF50 it is then!!!
So how do you guys actually apply the stuff?? I had an aerosol can and it came out pretty thick which was fine for behind fairings etc but not on my R1200S that I might brush against and start up every so often during the winter.
I'm guessing you need to buy the big bottle and a plant sprayer (the ones that you pump and goes a fine mist??) do you just cover the urea and discs when applying....oh I'll start a new thread!!

I tend to use duck oil old habit i suppose a 5 litre can is expensive but will last for years and years
http://www.axminster.co.uk/swarfega-duc ... tomsection

available elsewhere all seem about the same price five litre can comes with a hand sprayer i believe

Can't help with alarm and batt minder

Well I have been riding the RF for a couple of days and to be honest it isn't that bad for a 20 year old bike with 44k!! Yeah brakes are "adequate" and the suspension is soft (as is the power delivery!!) but for winter it's quite good!!

I haven't ridden an inline 4 for years and my god they're hard work!! Holding the gears til you get to upwards of 10k before anything happens!!

The only thing is that I am so used to naked bikes and after putting a flat bar conversion on the R12S (and loving it-now a gorgeous S with GS riding position!) the bars are a bit low!!

Seemingly this is a simple job of swapping the top yolk over to a Bandit 600 top yolk so if I decide to keep it for a while then that's the route ill be going-but ill need to order longer brake lines!!

[quote="StreetFlatTwin"] and believe it or not MOT'd!!

quote].

The most startling MOT I ever saw was on a Sunbeam S8. My mate bought it, I rode it home. the front forks were a bit odd so we drained them of about a quater pint of water and quarter pint of oil then refilled them. The rear plungers were solid and gummed up with a hand painted paint job. The first time I used the front brake in anger I was surrounded by a cloud of rust. Anyhoo we took it the same afternoon for an MOT and it passed (this was in 1979) The brake test was basically a winch and a spring balance you held the brake on and the cable was wound up and if the spring balance reached a certain reading without the bike moving it was a pass.