How do I "fix" this?

Got a technical query? Found another 0.02bhp? Ask/tell the world.

Moderators: Gromit, Paul, slparry

User avatar
BMblB
Posts: 25
Joined: Sat May 02, 2015 6:21 am
Location: California, USA

How do I "fix" this?

Postby BMblB » Fri Aug 28, 2015 2:05 am

It looks like the previous owner installed some sort of footpeg lowering brackets:
ImageUntitled by Brian Freitag, on Flickr
ImageUntitled by Brian Freitag, on Flickr

I'm not very tall so I don't need the legroom and I grind the pegs on an almost daily basis.

How do I remove the brackets and put it back to "normal"?

Ideas?
Last edited by BMblB on Thu Oct 01, 2015 5:56 pm, edited 1 time in total.
----------------------------------
2001 R1100S
2006 Toyota Tundra
4 kids
2 Grand kids
3 cats

User avatar
jeznewsome
Posts: 334
Joined: Sat Aug 04, 2012 7:30 am
Location: Preston, Lancs

Postby jeznewsome » Fri Aug 28, 2015 5:40 am

Do you not just need to remove the adapter brackets and re-attach the original footpeg assembly to the frame?

ImageUntitled by Brian Freitag, on Flickr

p.s use the share arrow from Flickr and select BBCode option, medium size, then cut and paste the code to post photos. Use preview on the forum to check if you got it right.

User avatar
Blackal
Posts: 8249
Joined: Fri Jul 29, 2005 7:53 pm

Postby Blackal » Fri Aug 28, 2015 5:54 am

Remove the two black Torx bolts

Remove the two stainless Allen bolts

Use whichever bolts suit - to bolt the peg to the frame.

Al
If I am ever on life support - Unplug me......
Then plug me back in..........

See if that works .....
:?

McBoxer
Member
Posts: 488
Joined: Wed Jul 11, 2012 2:53 pm
Location: West Midlands

Postby McBoxer » Fri Aug 28, 2015 6:18 am

^Wot he said!
I was about to volunteer to take the brackets off your hands, until I realised that you're in California.
Unless it's California, Birmingham? If it is I'll pop round this weekend....
Big Scottish Al
____________
1982 BMW R65LS
1̶9̶9̶9̶ ̶B̶M̶W̶ ̶R̶1̶1̶0̶0̶S̶
2004 BMW R1150R Rockster 80 Jahre

User avatar
Dog Tyred
Member
Posts: 2696
Joined: Wed Jan 18, 2006 12:27 pm
Location: Tamuff

Postby Dog Tyred » Fri Aug 28, 2015 8:24 am

Wot they said but you will also need to disconnect the brake cylinder from the foot peg assembly as the position of the cylinder is fixed due to the hard piping. It looks like there is an extension plate behind the cylinder to allow the foot peg to be position lower so this will need to be removed as well.

Hard to tell from the photo but there must be some form of extender to the cylinder activation rod (?) as simply moving the whole foot peg assembly up while maintaining the original cylinder position will reduce the length of the operating rod considerably?

This is what it is supposed to look like although the rear end of your brake lever looks a bit different to mine.

Image

As an aside it looks like the rear sub-frame mounting lug has been welded back on at some point in the past :shock:

DT
Ride like your life depended on it.

2002 BCR

McBoxer
Member
Posts: 488
Joined: Wed Jul 11, 2012 2:53 pm
Location: West Midlands

Postby McBoxer » Fri Aug 28, 2015 11:20 am

Dog Tyred wrote:Wot they said but you will also need to disconnect the brake cylinder from the foot peg assembly as the position of the cylinder is fixed due to the hard piping. It looks like there is an extension plate behind the cylinder to allow the foot peg to be position lower so this will need to be removed as well.

Hard to tell from the photo but there must be some form of extender to the cylinder activation rod (?) as simply moving the whole foot peg assembly up while maintaining the original cylinder position will reduce the length of the operating rod considerably?

This is what it is supposed to look like although the rear end of your brake lever looks a bit different to mine.

Image

As an aside it looks like the rear sub-frame mounting lug has been welded back on at some point in the past :shock:

DT


Yes, you're right. Looks like some kind of extension rod fitted between the master cylinder and the brake lever. It looks (hopefully) like the master cylinder is still in it's original position, so if you take all three stainless Allen bolts out, along with the two Torx, you should be able to simply transpose it from the lower holes to the upper holes - once the extension rod is disconnected / removed of course.

Once it's in the "upper" position I'm hopeful that you will be able to reconnect the lever to the master cylinder fairly easily - although I wonder if the original clevis type end has been swapped to allow the extension to be fitted? The end of lever does also look different to DT's, as mentioned, so you're going to have to see what's there and make a decision based on that.
A picture from a similar angle as DT's would help, if that's possible?
Big Scottish Al
____________
1982 BMW R65LS
1̶9̶9̶9̶ ̶B̶M̶W̶ ̶R̶1̶1̶0̶0̶S̶
2004 BMW R1150R Rockster 80 Jahre

User avatar
Blackal
Posts: 8249
Joined: Fri Jul 29, 2005 7:53 pm

Postby Blackal » Fri Aug 28, 2015 5:19 pm

Dog Tyred wrote:
As an aside it looks like the rear sub-frame mounting lug has been welded back on at some point in the past :shock:

DT


Well spotted! At least that joint is in compression, but I would want to check on the condition of the two upper lugs which are in tension in operation - and must cope with fairly high dynamic loads.

Al
If I am ever on life support - Unplug me......
Then plug me back in..........

See if that works .....
:?

User avatar
BMblB
Posts: 25
Joined: Sat May 02, 2015 6:21 am
Location: California, USA

Postby BMblB » Fri Aug 28, 2015 5:22 pm

jeznewsome wrote:Do you not just need to remove the adapter brackets and re-attach the original footpeg assembly to the frame?


I was hoping someone had installed such bracket and might have first hand knowledge on how the mod is done and therefore reversed.

The issue I foresee is that the hard brake lines are going to interfere with the rear subframe if the master cylinder needs to be moved? It may not not according to Dog Tyred.

Thanks for the image posting advice. I posted via my iPhone and the Flikr app. Obviously I messed something up.

Yes, the rear of the brake lever is very different to what Dog Tyred has pictured. Maybe it is a year to year variation?

Both the shifter and brake have the extension rods, hopefully they are easily removed and the stock parts are there to work together.

As an aside, I lost the rear brake as I was pulling in to the office this morning. As I was looking at what might be the issue, I found that the extension rod had rotated enough that it kept the brake from working. I really need to remove these unwanted bits.

And, yes, that subframe bracket has been welded back on. The bike went down on that side with the previous owner. Lots of scrapes on the hard parts.
----------------------------------
2001 R1100S
2006 Toyota Tundra
4 kids
2 Grand kids
3 cats

User avatar
BMblB
Posts: 25
Joined: Sat May 02, 2015 6:21 am
Location: California, USA

Yes, that is the correct brake pedal

Postby BMblB » Fri Aug 28, 2015 11:33 pm

A call to my local BMW dealer confirms via the VIN that the ball and socket brake linkage is the correct part for my bike.

Hopefully the drop kit parts are just add ons and didn't remove the original parts. The rod is not a separate part. I'd have to buy a new rear cylinder for $200 USD. Ouch.
----------------------------------
2001 R1100S
2006 Toyota Tundra
4 kids
2 Grand kids
3 cats

User avatar
Droptarotter
Posts: 364
Joined: Mon Jan 05, 2009 5:02 pm
Location: Cloverdale, BC, Canada

Postby Droptarotter » Sat Aug 29, 2015 4:57 pm

It's possible that the rod might have enough adjustment to go back to stock.
I can't really see this kit containing another rod.
If it's still too long, you might be able to grind it to a shorter length??

Cheers

User avatar
f90x
Member
Posts: 2773
Joined: Mon Jul 16, 2007 5:38 pm
Location: norf lundun

Postby f90x » Sat Aug 29, 2015 6:41 pm

Dog Tyred wrote:Wot they said but you will also need to disconnect the brake cylinder from the foot peg assembly as the position of the cylinder is fixed due to the hard piping. It looks like there is an extension plate behind the cylinder to allow the foot peg to be position lower so this will need to be removed as well.

Hard to tell from the photo but there must be some form of extender to the cylinder activation rod (?) as simply moving the whole foot peg assembly up while maintaining the original cylinder position will reduce the length of the operating rod considerably?

This is what it is supposed to look like although the rear end of your brake lever looks a bit different to mine.

Image

As an aside it looks like the rear sub-frame mounting lug has been welded back on at some point in the past :shock:

DT


Greg, I can se a tint dot of dirt on the exhaust but I'm not telling you where.
R1200GS TC. Triple Black
R1200S. It’s gone. Had it 11yrs. My favourite bike in 42yrs riding.

Holdsworth professional
Motobecane C3
Brompton

User avatar
Dog Tyred
Member
Posts: 2696
Joined: Wed Jan 18, 2006 12:27 pm
Location: Tamuff

Postby Dog Tyred » Sat Aug 29, 2015 8:43 pm

f90x wrote:Greg, I can se a tint dot of dirt on the exhaust but I'm not telling you where.


ha! Steve alas that photo was taken about 7 years ago when I first got the bike. It is not 'quite' that clean any more.

DT
Ride like your life depended on it.



2002 BCR

User avatar
Al
Member
Posts: 1367
Joined: Thu Nov 03, 2005 9:56 am
Location: Devon

Postby Al » Sat Aug 29, 2015 10:30 pm

I have a similar wunderlich kit fitted to my bike but the extension for the brake cylinder fits between the rigid brake pipe and the top of the cylinder not the between the cylinder botton and the rear of the brake lever, I looked at several kits before getting mine and didn`t see any like yours, could it be a one off. you might be able to get another cylinder cheaper off ebay.

Al.
White/red BMW R1200R Sport
Shiny Red Honda Civic
Shiny Silver MR2 vvti Roadster. Going to be sold
White Peugeot Boxer Camper Conversion.
Battle scarred Suzuki Burgman 125,(Mrs Als) going to be sold
Suzuki VanVan 125

boxerscott
Posts: 3704
Joined: Sat Apr 21, 2007 5:07 pm
Location: scottish borders
Contact:

Postby boxerscott » Thu Sep 03, 2015 12:07 am

remove the hero blobs, Yorkshire fix. gives you another 30mm of clearance. :wink:

1/4 turn of spanner is easily enough to shear them off. (DAMHIK)
Fiat Panda.
Fiat Scudo (with speedblock, pipe carrier, reversing sensors, reversing camera, tow bar, some new rust and Fake Plumber logo)


started out with nothing, still have most of it left.

User avatar
DPG
Posts: 65
Joined: Sat May 23, 2015 5:43 pm
Location: Stevenage UK

Postby DPG » Thu Sep 03, 2015 8:02 am

f90x wrote:
Dog Tyred wrote:Wot they said but you will also need to disconnect the brake cylinder from the foot peg assembly as the position of the cylinder is fixed due to the hard piping. It looks like there is an extension plate behind the cylinder to allow the foot peg to be position lower so this will need to be removed as well.

Hard to tell from the photo but there must be some form of extender to the cylinder activation rod (?) as simply moving the whole foot peg assembly up while maintaining the original cylinder position will reduce the length of the operating rod considerably?

This is what it is supposed to look like although the rear end of your brake lever looks a bit different to mine.

Image

As an aside it looks like the rear sub-frame mounting lug has been welded back on at some point in the past :shock:

DT


Greg, I can se a tint dot of dirt on the exhaust but I'm not telling you where.


Its worse than that - the belly pans 'anging orf!
R1250GS
R1100S BCR
KTM RC8R 12R.
2006 HD Streetglide.
Claas Arion 180
MF 135
MF 350
1943 Ford 2N Funk Flathead Conversion


Return to “Boxertech”

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 30 guests