Cut down socket for gearbox oil drain

[Motocod]

Hi All,

Apologies if I've asked this before - can anyone recommend somewhere that sells a cut-down socket for undoing the gearbox oil drain plug? I can't undo mine, as the exhaust is in the way - I assume this is common on all or most R1100S. I don't have the facilities for cutting one down myself, and don't especially feel like paying a dealer to undertake such a basic task!

Thanks,

Nik

[Dog Tyred]

Nik

Best to use a cut down 14mm allen key section inserted into a 14mm ring spanner. Works a treat.

DT

[jeznewsome]

Nik

Best to use a cut down 14mm allen key section inserted into a 14mm ring spanner. Works a treat.

DT

Wot DT said......though I just cut down the allen key and used direct.

[nab 301]

Hi All,

I don't have the facilities for cutting one down myself, and don't especially feel like paying a dealer to undertake such a basic task!

Thanks,

Nik

As above , I cut down a car drain plug type tool using a hack saw and a vice , if you don't have these facilities I found this link from a bmw car forum , but the drain plug can be tight and it may not work.
http://www.bokchoys.com/differential/14mm_bolt.htm

[Motocod]

Thanks guys, I'll see about cutting one down at work. Can anyone advise the finished length please?

[The Teutonic Tangerine]

If using a straight section of allen keyin a ring spanner then an inch or inch and a half is aedequate. If you are grinding down the key to use the key itself then I guess as long as you have about 3/4 of an inch that would be fine.

[Tapio]

Hi All,

I don't have the facilities for cutting one down myself, and don't especially feel like paying a dealer to undertake such a basic task!

Thanks,

Nik

As above , I cut down a car drain plug type tool using a hack saw and a vice , if you don't have these facilities I found this link from a bmw car forum , but the drain plug can be tight and it may not work.
http://www.bokchoys.com/differential/14mm_bolt.htm

The solution in your link might work, but i'm wondering: where did that guy find a screw with a 14 mm hex head? They must be as rare as hens teeth. Standard head on a M8 is 13 mm (or 12mm). Std head on a M10 is 17 mm (or 16 mm). My guess is, since he's an american, that he used an 9/16” UNC head screw. It might fit. 9/16”= 14.2 mm. But why doesn't he say so?
I don't know how readily available inch size screws are in the UK. In Sweden they are harder and harder to find.

First time i changed the trans oil on my bike i used a vise-grip. It's a shed mechanic approach that leaves nasty marks on the drain plug. I don't recommend it.
Now i use a cut down allen key.

[Corvus]

Hi All,

I don't have the facilities for cutting one down myself, and don't especially feel like paying a dealer to undertake such a basic task!

Thanks,

Nik

As above , I cut down a car drain plug type tool using a hack saw and a vice , if you don't have these facilities I found this link from a bmw car forum , but the drain plug can be tight and it may not work.
http://www.bokchoys.com/differential/14mm_bolt.htm

The solution in your link might work, but i'm wondering: where did that guy find a screw with a 14 mm hex head? They must be as rare as hens teeth. Standard head on a M8 is 13 mm (or 12mm). Std head on a M10 is 17 mm (or 16 mm). My guess is, since he's an american, that he used an 9/16” UNC head screw. It might fit. 9/16”= 14.2 mm. But why doesn't he say so?
I don't know how readily available inch size screws are in the UK. In Sweden they are harder and harder to find.

First time i changed the trans oil on my bike i used a vise-grip. It's a shed mechanic approach that leaves nasty marks on the drain plug. I don't recommend it.
Now i use a cut down allen key.

Whitworth and even unified fasteners are available, along with mole grips, if pushed.



14mm heads are found on jap bikes, although most are flange headed, with radiused corners, so maybe not ideal for the task above.

Fasteners on my bikes get converted to stainless as I go along, so the 14mm and 12mm tend to disappear. Exception being, for example, caliper bolts, where I stick to specialist made.

How's the weather over there? I've been a "non-salty-road" rider for the last three years, but I'm fed up with that. Gonna, get myself a winter tool sorted fir next time.

Cheers.

[Tapio]

As above , I cut down a car drain plug type tool using a hack saw and a vice , if you don't have these facilities I found this link from a bmw car forum , but the drain plug can be tight and it may not work.
http://www.bokchoys.com/differential/14mm_bolt.htm

The solution in your link might work, but i'm wondering: where did that guy find a screw with a 14 mm hex head? They must be as rare as hens teeth. Standard head on a M8 is 13 mm (or 12mm). Std head on a M10 is 17 mm (or 16 mm). My guess is, since he's an american, that he used an 9/16” UNC head screw. It might fit. 9/16”= 14.2 mm. But why doesn't he say so?
I don't know how readily available inch size screws are in the UK. In Sweden they are harder and harder to find.

First time i changed the trans oil on my bike i used a vise-grip. It's a shed mechanic approach that leaves nasty marks on the drain plug. I don't recommend it.
Now i use a cut down allen key.

Whitworth and even unified fasteners are available, along with mole grips, if pushed.



14mm heads are found on jap bikes, although most are flange headed, with radiused corners, so maybe not ideal for the task above.

Fasteners on my bikes get converted to stainless as I go along, so the 14mm and 12mm tend to disappear. Exception being, for example, caliper bolts, where I stick to specialist made.

How's the weather over there? I've been a "non-salty-road" rider for the last three years, but I'm fed up with that. Gonna, get myself a winter tool sorted fir next time.

Cheers.

You are correct! All bigger screws on my K100 are allen. On the BCR a mix of Allen and torx.
But i found that the M10 screws holding the rear brake caliper on my Suzuki GSX are 14 mm.

Oh, we have had a few days of 5-10+ deg, so all snow is gone.
I've been thinking of getting a winter bike too. I like the Yamaha XT500's from the late 70's.
But then again: i think (not sure) it has a 6V electrical system and points ignition...

[dave the german]

Just looked t my manual for the SR500 and it is 6V for the XT (12V for the SR) and it would appear they used points. The 1980 US models used a CDI unit but cannot find a mention about the UK version

[Corvus]

The solution in your link might work, but i'm wondering: where did that guy find a screw with a 14 mm hex head? They must be as rare as hens teeth. Standard head on a M8 is 13 mm (or 12mm). Std head on a M10 is 17 mm (or 16 mm). My guess is, since he's an american, that he used an 9/16” UNC head screw. It might fit. 9/16”= 14.2 mm. But why doesn't he say so?
I don't know how readily available inch size screws are in the UK. In Sweden they are harder and harder to find.

First time i changed the trans oil on my bike i used a vise-grip. It's a shed mechanic approach that leaves nasty marks on the drain plug. I don't recommend it.
Now i use a cut down allen key.

Whitworth and even unified fasteners are available, along with mole grips, if pushed.



14mm heads are found on jap bikes, although most are flange headed, with radiused corners, so maybe not ideal for the task above.

Fasteners on my bikes get converted to stainless as I go along, so the 14mm and 12mm tend to disappear. Exception being, for example, caliper bolts, where I stick to specialist made.

How's the weather over there? I've been a "non-salty-road" rider for the last three years, but I'm fed up with that. Gonna, get myself a winter tool sorted fir next time.

Cheers.

You are correct! All bigger screws on my K100 are allen. On the BCR a mix of Allen and torx.
But i found that the M10 screws holding the rear brake caliper on my Suzuki GSX are 14 mm.

Oh, we have had a few days of 5-10+ deg, so all snow is gone.
I've been thinking of getting a winter bike too. I like the Yamaha XT500's from the late 70's.
But then again: i think (not sure) it has a 6V electrical system and points ignition...

I remembered, too late, your photos a while back showing the suzuki. Of course you'd know, what I said. I'm an idiot sometimes. Apologies, but that's the way it is.

6volts.... not so good.

Points.... you know what. I'm fed up with (electronic) technology. I'll take the points. You can keep the computers. (Except the I pad, that can stay) (oh, and the kindle fire. That can stay too).

I'd stand a chance of constructing my own system, points included, using my own hands. A computer? Nah.

[nab 301]

Thanks guys, I'll see about cutting one down at work. Can anyone advise the finished length please?

The 14mm hex in the photo is 12mm long so just add on the width of a ring spanner . I have to use a 24mm spanner so the 32mm is the max length that can be used with that combination, I'm too lazy to shorten it.

[Motocod]

Thanks Nigel, appreciate you taking the time to post the pic - just what I needed!

[Motocod]

I bought a 14mm Allen key off Amazon (£1.99!), and just cut it down to length using the Dremel at work (fantastic little cutting disc attachment like a mini angle grinder!). So I'm all set now.

The remaining Allen key has enough material left over for a further 9 gearbox drain tools!

cheers,

Nik

[tanneman]

I usually stick a cut down plastic bottle under it or a piece of cardboard to direct the oil so it doesn't make a mess of the exhaust or frame.