Removing a Datatool syatem 3
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Removing a Datatool syatem 3
Anyone had any experience of removing a Datatool system 3 from a 1100s. Mine has been a little iffy of late....not turning off.... and I don,t think its anything to do with the batteries. Reading the internet it would appear they can become troublesome, so before I get stranded I,m thinking of removing the thing.
Any ideas on the price to have it removed might be useful too.
Cheers Bry
Any ideas on the price to have it removed might be useful too.
Cheers Bry
kernow,the last bit
Hi
I have removed a couple of alarms from 1100,1200s. Get yourself a soldering iron and solder, heats rink covering and some decent loom tape. Srip plastics off bike and work backwards from the alarm . You will see where it has been spliced into the loom. Simply remove alarm wires and reconnect original wires.
All the best
Gus
I have removed a couple of alarms from 1100,1200s. Get yourself a soldering iron and solder, heats rink covering and some decent loom tape. Srip plastics off bike and work backwards from the alarm . You will see where it has been spliced into the loom. Simply remove alarm wires and reconnect original wires.
All the best
Gus
I did mine exactly as Gus said, if I remember correctly most of the splices were in/near the fuse/relay lekkie box behind the r/h(when sitting on bike) side fairing panel and the main unit was fixed to the battery holder on mine.
I left the indicator led in place and connected it to battery with an inline switch for switching led on/off if I parked somewhere iffy. (Exeter
)
Have a fun w/end Bry,
Al,
I left the indicator led in place and connected it to battery with an inline switch for switching led on/off if I parked somewhere iffy. (Exeter

Have a fun w/end Bry,
Al,
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Re: Removing a Datatool syatem 3
I had exactly the same problem whilst in the Black Forest last year. Got to the point that we has stopped for coffee one day on a run and it wouldn't disarm. B*ggered about with it for an hour and finally had to give up an ring Auntie Carole Nash's recovery. Bike taken to local BMW dealer and it took their mechanic 3 hours to remove it and put all the wiring back together again. Left 400 euros lighter and the alarm still chattering away in their bin.cornishflat wrote:Anyone had any experience of removing a Datatool system 3 from a 1100s. Mine has been a little iffy of late....not turning off.... and I don,t think its anything to do with the batteries. Reading the internet it would appear they can become troublesome, so before I get stranded I,m thinking of removing the thing.
Any ideas on the price to have it removed might be useful too.
Cheers Bry
Watched the guy do it and whilst I would say give it a go I would only do it myself if I had a wiring diagram handy. He was constantly referring to one.
Nick
When life gives you melons, you may be dyslexic.
When life gives you melons, you may be dyslexic.
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Try for service mode.
If it does that successfully or not................
Try and get some duct tape sealed across the sounder to dampen the siren.
Once that is done - follow my e-mailed instructions, in the order listed.
Job's a carrot!
Al
If it does that successfully or not................
Try and get some duct tape sealed across the sounder to dampen the siren.
Once that is done - follow my e-mailed instructions, in the order listed.
Job's a carrot!
Al

If I am ever on life support - Unplug me......
Then plug me back in..........
See if that works .....
Then plug me back in..........
See if that works .....

- the smudger
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I removed mine from the GS. Don't be too concerned about the make, they are all basically the same. As someone else has said all you need to do is find the siren/controller and work back.
There will be roughly 5 wires,
1. Power supply (usually fused)
2. Earth
3, 4&5. These will be 'T'd into the wiring loom near the ECU. What you need to know is (and I say this with the greatest respect), most alarm fitters are not electrical genius's, they will just bare wires and solder in!!)
These 3 (approx) wires T into the ignition, fuel and starting circuits. All you need to do is find them, cut the alarm wiring off or disconnect. All they usually do is T in, as the alarm simply grounds that wire, rendering it useless so the bike won't start.
If you need any more advice PM me and I will go through it with you over the phone.
Rods, Steve.
There will be roughly 5 wires,
1. Power supply (usually fused)
2. Earth
3, 4&5. These will be 'T'd into the wiring loom near the ECU. What you need to know is (and I say this with the greatest respect), most alarm fitters are not electrical genius's, they will just bare wires and solder in!!)
These 3 (approx) wires T into the ignition, fuel and starting circuits. All you need to do is find them, cut the alarm wiring off or disconnect. All they usually do is T in, as the alarm simply grounds that wire, rendering it useless so the bike won't start.
If you need any more advice PM me and I will go through it with you over the phone.
Rods, Steve.
I know that Datatool don't simply earth a supply in order to prevent operation - for a start, there would be current flow to earth.the smudger wrote:I removed mine from the GS. Don't be too concerned about the make, they are all basically the same. As someone else has said all you need to do is find the siren/controller and work back.
There will be roughly 5 wires,
1. Power supply (usually fused)
2. Earth
3, 4&5. These will be 'T'd into the wiring loom near the ECU. What you need to know is (and I say this with the greatest respect), most alarm fitters are not electrical genius's, they will just bare wires and solder in!!)
These 3 (approx) wires T into the ignition, fuel and starting circuits. All you need to do is find them, cut the alarm wiring off or disconnect. All they usually do is T in, as the alarm simply grounds that wire, rendering it useless so the bike won't start.
If you need any more advice PM me and I will go through it with you over the phone.
Rods, Steve.
Datatool takes two wires from the start signal through the unit, then the start cable is snipped between the two jumpers. The start signal then must go through the Datatool. The reason the wires are bared and soldered is more a matter of security:
Security of connection
Security - so that there are no "telltale" connectors.
Al
If I am ever on life support - Unplug me......
Then plug me back in..........
See if that works .....
Then plug me back in..........
See if that works .....
