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Anyone had to replace a front wheel spindle? I seem to have a little play when the wheel is off. I can put the spindle through and there seems to be a tiny amount of play if i shake the spindle in the bearings. The bearings are reasonable new and I have tried this in another wheel with the same result. Wondering if this could be causing the slight juddering when braking. Already replaced wheel, bearings, callipers, tyre so running out of options. Thought I might try a new spindle.

I assume that in replacing the front wheel you also replaced the discs, as a warped disc would be the first place I would look when considering juddering under braking? Do you have the tools, or know someone that could check disc runout with a dial gauge?

If you want to try another wheel spindle I have one on the bench at the moment (assuming it is an R1100S).

Yes, the discs have been replaced 3 times now with all new fittings which is why I have now got to the wheel spindle as the next stage. I think after that it might be broken for spares unless I can justify getting the ball joints replaced. The bike is a 12S. Thanks for the offer, I have ordered a second hand spindle from James Sherlock thinking that £30 is worth a punt and a 30,000 mile spindle should be less worn than my 102,000 mile one. Fingers crossed.

I don't know how your spindle would wear ?
When clamped up correctly the shoulder on the splindle should nip up the two inner races of the ball bearings and lock them solid so the only movement can be the inner races to the outer races, which are clamped by the interfearence fit in the wheel. There should be no movement at all to wear the spindle either radially or lengthwise along the spindle. If it is worn then the inner races have been turning on the spindle which points to either not tightened up correctly or inferior manufacturing tolerances on the diameter and width of the inner race of the bearings. Strange this one.
Let us know how you get on please.

Curious too! Shame balljoints appear to be specific to models as I have a couple of those too from an R1100S (around 30k miles each)

Is the movement definitely from the bottom? Steering head bearings? Bearings on the wishbone? Then as you have stated ball joints

Humbug wrote:Anyone had to replace a front wheel spindle? I seem to have a little play when the wheel is off. I can put the spindle through and there seems to be a tiny amount of play if i shake the spindle in the bearings. The bearings are reasonable new and I have tried this in another wheel with the same result. Wondering if this could be causing the slight juddering when braking. Already replaced wheel, bearings, callipers, tyre so running out of options. Thought I might try a new spindle.

Look at the bmw part number pressed into spindle and check if it is the correct model specific spindle.

Edit, Just wondering how those symptoms are not picked up at MOT time.

Chris

I'll check the spindle when I pull the wheel off to replace the top ball joint this week. Looking at Motorworks, the spindle is common to all R series except HP@ Enduro and Megamoto models. Maybe not picked up at MOT as I had just replaced discs at that point and it seems that something is causing the discs to warp over a short period of time. Its not as if its the same side disc that warps as well! The spindle is always tightened to the correct torque settings and as said earlier in the thread, I don't know how the spindle could have worn being clamped as it is but there is definitely a rattle when it is slid through the bearings and wiggled on two separate wheels. Like I said, I have changed wheel, discs, bearings, callipers and tyre. Mike Overy at Overland and Classic had a quick test ride and thought it was bottom end rather than ball joints so I'll try spindle next as well as top yoke and then move on from there.

Humbug wrote:I'll check the spindle when I pull the wheel off to replace the top ball joint this week. Looking at Motorworks, the spindle is common to all R series except HP@ Enduro and Megamoto models. Maybe not picked up at MOT as I had just replaced discs at that point and it seems that something is causing the discs to warp over a short period of time. Its not as if its the same side disc that warps as well! The spindle is always tightened to the correct torque settings and as said earlier in the thread, I don't know how the spindle could have worn being clamped as it is but there is definitely a rattle when it is slid through the bearings and wiggled on two separate wheels. Like I said, I have changed wheel, discs, bearings, callipers and tyre. Mike Overy at Overland and Classic had a quick test ride and thought it was bottom end rather than ball joints so I'll try spindle next as well as top yoke and then move on from there.

Check model specifics on REALOEM bmw.com. I would trust that more than anything else. If I remember correctly my Bcr front wheel bearings were different to R1100s ones . Can not see it been the telelever .. that never affects fork dive and front end handling (cough splutter)

EDIT. have you checked for front wheel run out? You can do this roughly with front wheel attached and in air, spin it up , steadily hold a pointer about 1/4 inch from rim and see if the gap varies.

GOT to be disc related!! Yesterday I changed spindle, put replacement callipers on, top yoke with replacement ball joint (helibars as well), checked wheel for run out even though it has been checked and trued, took it out for a spin just now, still juddering and noticeable pulsing at the lever. Clamped the brake lines individually and seems that the left disc now is causing the most issue. AAAAAAAAARGH. looks like a fourth set of discs are needed.

Have the wheels been powder coated and the disc mating surfaces not been masked off correctly?

Dave has a good point. I have had two KTM 1290s that have suffered from pulsing discs, from very early in their use.

The first just the discs were changed and pulsing again shortly afterwards. The second the front wheel was also changes as there were problems with the quality control on the disc mounts. This has, thankfully cured the problem.

No, the original wheel was as factory finished and the replacement was painted but the disc mounts were clean. going to take the wheel to JDL to check runout on the discs again. With new callipers, wheel, bearings, axle etc. I am hoping that if I change the discs again, there is nothing left that would pulse and pressurise the brake lever

Humbug
Get JDL to check the runout of the disc mounting faces as well as the discs when mounted - that will tell you if that is causing the problem each time you change discs.

Will do. I need to get to the bottom of this issue. Love the bike as the 100,000 miles proves but its difficult getting the most out of it on the track days and touring without proper braking at the front end. Cost is now becoming an issue due to the residual value of the bike (about thruppence ha'penny now!)