Hi all
Took the rear end apart today.What i found aint nice.Looks like the rear UJ splines are knackered along with the rear diff input shaft splines.They are all twisted and damaged.Will have to strip down rear diff to remove offending item and replace with new or secondhand.One things for sure i aint payin £55 a bloody hour for the privelege.Looks like a quick lesson in diff stripping is in order.Now wheres my lump hammer and chisel....
gus
Shafted
Moderators: Gromit, Paul, slparry
Re: Shafted
ahhhh, the joys of using calibrated tools......
was using a 2 pound lump hammer against a GS650E alternator rotor earlier with the aid of the swingarm bolt (handy hint, remove rotor bolt, put swingarm bolt in and you have a rotor extractor due to pivot being larger thread than rotor bolt!), I won the two hour fight
was using a 2 pound lump hammer against a GS650E alternator rotor earlier with the aid of the swingarm bolt (handy hint, remove rotor bolt, put swingarm bolt in and you have a rotor extractor due to pivot being larger thread than rotor bolt!), I won the two hour fight
gus wrote:Hi all
Took the rear end apart today.What i found aint nice.Looks like the rear UJ splines are knackered along with the rear diff input shaft splines.They are all twisted and damaged.Will have to strip down rear diff to remove offending item and replace with new or secondhand.One things for sure i aint payin £55 a bloody hour for the privelege.Looks like a quick lesson in diff stripping is in order.Now wheres my lump hammer and chisel....
gus
Classic Motorcycle Magazine, Young Motorcyclist of the Year 2003
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Darth_1100S
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bigblackfalco
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Gus,personally I'd go down the secondhand bevel box route.The 2 pinions in there are a matched pair...which cost a vast fortune.You would need some special tools to get the input pinion out and then you have to use shims to get the 2 pinions within correct tolerances.
You'd be better off asking Darren at Motorworks to lookout for a low mileage unit.Think your looking at about £300.00 for this.But then you'd need a bottom UJ too which is £90.00(this is praying that your top UJ is OK too!).
It seems just recently,that a few people have highlighted a design fault on these bikes.
Anyone for chain drive?
Bailey.
You'd be better off asking Darren at Motorworks to lookout for a low mileage unit.Think your looking at about £300.00 for this.But then you'd need a bottom UJ too which is £90.00(this is praying that your top UJ is OK too!).
It seems just recently,that a few people have highlighted a design fault on these bikes.
Anyone for chain drive?
Bailey.
Bailey
I know what your sayin,but getting hold of a secondhand one aint easy.Paying £300 for a s/h is a bit of a risk,i might as well have mine reconditioned for that kind of money and know it will be good for another 40000.The top uj looks ok as far as i can tell.As for special tools,thats why the hammer and chisel was invented,wasnt it?
Looking through the manual,there aint anything real special thats needed,deep sockets and castle headed extractor and a few bearing pullers.As for shimming,i aint scared of that.I,ve done enough on kwacks to learn that one.Patience is the key,and a large hammer!
Even if it does get to much,at least it will save on labour as i would have already stripped or broke
the diff,so only reassembly would be needed!
yeah right!
gus
I know what your sayin,but getting hold of a secondhand one aint easy.Paying £300 for a s/h is a bit of a risk,i might as well have mine reconditioned for that kind of money and know it will be good for another 40000.The top uj looks ok as far as i can tell.As for special tools,thats why the hammer and chisel was invented,wasnt it?
Looking through the manual,there aint anything real special thats needed,deep sockets and castle headed extractor and a few bearing pullers.As for shimming,i aint scared of that.I,ve done enough on kwacks to learn that one.Patience is the key,and a large hammer!
Even if it does get to much,at least it will save on labour as i would have already stripped or broke
the diff,so only reassembly would be needed!
yeah right!
gus
Gus - I'm confused? Which splines are buggered? The diff end where the UJ connects? Was this secured over the sping clip? Sounds like the splines on the UJ were slipping up and down cos for them to twist would need them to not be fully overlapped as they should be when the spring clip in in place - you have to give it quite a thump to get it on when you assemble. Maybe the clip has failed?
I know what you mean about the diff though - there was one went for £75 on ebay a few months ago, complete with lower UJ - bargain! Just was too short that month unfortunately
As for the self disassembly - I think that's a no go like Mr B says. The bearings are all manufactured to slightly different tollerances and you'd have to replace the shims to set it up right - you don't want that going tits up at high speed!
Good luck anyway mate - perhaps you should send a beg mail to Julian for his old diff and UJ (I wanted that though!)
Jason
I know what you mean about the diff though - there was one went for £75 on ebay a few months ago, complete with lower UJ - bargain! Just was too short that month unfortunately
As for the self disassembly - I think that's a no go like Mr B says. The bearings are all manufactured to slightly different tollerances and you'd have to replace the shims to set it up right - you don't want that going tits up at high speed!
Good luck anyway mate - perhaps you should send a beg mail to Julian for his old diff and UJ (I wanted that though!)
Jason
Spring clip,what bloody spring clip!Arghh,that must be the all the bloody chaff i had in there then.Looks like that was the culprit then.The damage upon cleaning everything and having a good look seems to be limited to the UJ female spliness.They are really fooked.The diff male splines look OK,which is a big relief as despite all th the bravado i didnt really wanna have to rebuild the rear diff.Saying that,i hope the input bevel pinion is meant to have a slight chanfer on it before the spring clip recess.And i take it this is where the spring clip lives or used to in my case.So what was happening in mine was that the UJ was sliding up and probulary beyond the input bevel pinion and not sliding on the larger shaft male UJ splines.Bloody nora!All i can say is that i,ve been pretty lucky not to have a serious issue with a possible rear end lock up.Thanks guys for all your help and input.The bike looks kinda sad sat up on axle stands with its arse end hanging out.But have taken the oppotunuty to sort out a few cosmetics while it is off the road.
gus
gus
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Darth_1100S
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bigblackfalco
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From what i remember,the recess for the spring clip is in the UJ/female splines.When you remove the UJ from the bevelbox the springclip should stay inside the splined section.
When I replaced my bottom UJ,there was a lot of swarf just from where the splines had erroded.
The output splines on the gearbox and the input shaft on the bevel box are designed to be much harder than the driveshaft parts.
Make sure you check the top UJ too.There should be no axial play whatsoever.
IF you replace the bottom UJ,do the top one too.If the top splines are worn and you fail to notice it,you will cause premature wear of the new bottom splines.
This is why BMW only sell as one unit...top half and bottom half together.
Bailey.
When I replaced my bottom UJ,there was a lot of swarf just from where the splines had erroded.
The output splines on the gearbox and the input shaft on the bevel box are designed to be much harder than the driveshaft parts.
Make sure you check the top UJ too.There should be no axial play whatsoever.
IF you replace the bottom UJ,do the top one too.If the top splines are worn and you fail to notice it,you will cause premature wear of the new bottom splines.
This is why BMW only sell as one unit...top half and bottom half together.
Bailey.
Cheers bailey
Will check the top UJ ASAP.The bike is at my brotherinlaws at the moment as i cant even get the bike to my rear garden.The joys of living in a victorian terrace.It looks like the spring clip goes in the recess in the rear pinion drive which is the male spline.When i was talking chaff,i meant a alot of metal was in there.
cheers gus
Will check the top UJ ASAP.The bike is at my brotherinlaws at the moment as i cant even get the bike to my rear garden.The joys of living in a victorian terrace.It looks like the spring clip goes in the recess in the rear pinion drive which is the male spline.When i was talking chaff,i meant a alot of metal was in there.
cheers gus
That's good news at least Gus - I'm sure Motorworks will have/get a 2nd hand shaft/UJ and then it's a quick job innit! Just remember to thump the UJ over the spring clip - you should be able to swing the diff about just holding the UJ if it's on properly.
It's amazing what damage the failure of a 1p clip can do!
Good luck - hope it's back together soon
Jason
It's amazing what damage the failure of a 1p clip can do!
Good luck - hope it's back together soon
Jason
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