sensor?

[EDSEYBOY]

well ive come to ask the wise and informed on here . has anyone on here ever had a problem with there hall effect sensor

[slparry]

no but a friend had trouble with his on his R1100RS seem to recall he replaced the component parts from some online source which was hugely cheaper than replacing the unit

[oyster]

Hall effect is an electronic switch. It works or it doesn't. Usually fails once the engine is hot, so you get ten miles down the road and then stops. May start again once the bike is cold. Or it fails completely and the bike will not start at all.

[Phil Thomas]

The Hall Effect Switch is a Honeywell 2AV54 (2 off) which may be purchased from Farnell, although they still have to come from the States.

Regards,

[ned1]

Have a look here......it may help !!

http://www.ebbo.org/2av54.php

Ned

[dorsetboy]

Ah yes the old "Hall effect sensor"........

I found this very nice explanation.

http://advwisdom.hogranch.com/Wisdom/oi ... ensors.pdf

Very interesting. I like the start...It was a dark and stormy night...!

Mike

[EDSEYBOY]

thanks fellas , what are the signs if its not working properly, other than what oyster says???

[nab 301]

thanks fellas , what are the signs if its not working properly, other than what oyster says???

No spark at plugs and possibly no fuel pump when cranking the engine .

[EDSEYBOY]

thanks nab its defo not the hall sensor

[slparry]

side stand switch?

[Steptoe]

thanks nab its defo not the hall sensor

Try being a bit more informative of your actual problem and you may get an answer and save everyone time

So far it's like pulling teeth, one at a time.

[Hayden]

thanks nab its defo not the hall sensor

Try being a bit more informative of your actual problem and you may get an answer and save everyone time

So far it's like pulling teeth, one at a time.

Harsh, but fair. What exactly is the problem?

Cheers

[CC Mac 2]

mine packed in at about 32 thou. It worked Ok until it was warm and then cut out. It could be started once or twice when cold but wouldn't run for long.

[EDSEYBOY]

well theres no need to bite me head of , the problem is this when i come of the throttle clutch in the thing starts back fireing and oh so slightly splutering and then stalls if the revs aint high enough mechanic thought it was throttle cables so hes replaced them took it out yesterday it runs great when you open it up ,but problem comes when in traffic he thought mabye it might be hall sensor im oh so sorry for my ramblings on

[nab 301]

, the problem is this when i come of the throttle clutch in the thing starts back fireing and oh so slightly splutering and then stalls if the revs aint high enough mechanic thought it was throttle cables so hes replaced them took it out yesterday it runs great when you open it up ,but problem comes when in traffic he thought mabye it might be hall sensor im oh so sorry for my ramblings on

It's hard to tell really, and reading through your old posts you seem to have covered everything,.... over time ....If it was my bike I'd start again by checking/adjusting valve clearances carefully , balancing the TB's very carefully (new cable outers can settle slighty when new and cause havoc) and make sure the vacuum caps aren't missing from underneath the TB's, and that there are no airleaks at the manifolds or the o rings on the airbox side of the TB's.
Failing that, the lambda sensor can cause some odd problems that clear on full throttle.
If all the above isn't possible at least check that the TB's are in balance and work from there.