throttlemeister wrote:Mine were stuck to the point I could not move them by hand. They were blown out before I had full pressure on. They blow out really easy with air.
I can't move them by hand when the seals are perfectly new!
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Phil K wrote:I had to find thicker o-rings, as the ones supplied in the kits were visibly thinner than the ones that came out.
Archie, I hope that you checked on the material!
****For use in brake fluid you should use EPDM not standard Nitrile *****
Nitrile will fail very soon after fitting - not good at speed
Phil
Blackal wrote:throttlemeister wrote:Mine were stuck to the point I could not move them by hand. They were blown out before I had full pressure on. They blow out really easy with air.
Why not just couple them back up to the brake master cylinder and use hydraulic pressure to shift them?
Hydraulic power is a lot safer than coupling up an air hose.
Using compressed air is a bit "Yee-Hah" in comparison
Al
Yogi Bear wrote:Blackal wrote:throttlemeister wrote:Mine were stuck to the point I could not move them by hand. They were blown out before I had full pressure on. They blow out really easy with air.
Why not just couple them back up to the brake master cylinder and use hydraulic pressure to shift them?
Hydraulic power is a lot safer than coupling up an air hose.
Using compressed air is a bit "Yee-Hah" in comparison
Al
BlackAL gets his Thousandth Post...........
Blackal wrote:throttlemeister wrote:Mine were stuck to the point I could not move them by hand. They were blown out before I had full pressure on. They blow out really easy with air.
Why not just couple them back up to the brake master cylinder and use hydraulic pressure to shift them?
Hydraulic power is a lot safer than coupling up an air hose.
Using compressed air is a bit "Yee-Hah" in comparison
Al
throttlemeister wrote:Blackal wrote:throttlemeister wrote:Mine were stuck to the point I could not move them by hand. They were blown out before I had full pressure on. They blow out really easy with air.
Why not just couple them back up to the brake master cylinder and use hydraulic pressure to shift them?
Hydraulic power is a lot safer than coupling up an air hose.
Using compressed air is a bit "Yee-Hah" in comparison
Al
Cause once you got the first two out, how do you expect the next two to come out without fluid in there?
It's not that YeeHaw, but you need to be careful. You just put the airgun into the where the banjo bolt goes, and give it a _little_ air and out they come.
It is actually the only way to get them out easily and done like that in every shop. It is also explicitly mentioned in the Hayes manual to do it like this.
julian wrote:On a previous S, I made a wooden block with a piston sized notch which allowed only one piston to operate at any given time (but not far enough to pop it out) using the brake lever. Remove the block, clean the piston surface and then push back in. Repeat on other pistons.
My current pistons work back in with resonable finger pressure but after each 6 months' use (4k miles) some are more sticky than others .
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