R1100S Intake Ram Tubes.

[metropolis2k]

Metropolis2K - oh goodness me mate - just go for it.

Hey that's my first post in this thread! I've only just come across this mod.

I'm just checking those are the right parts because I actually have a GS so I should have a pair of the right intakes already. The only issue is you've cut yours whereas I've seen people just fit them straight away without modification. If I can do that I'll test it this weekend and put the GS out of action for a bit.

[Al]

You cannot fit the tubes complete, they are different diameter than the s ones where they exit the airbox, thats why they slide inside the s ones.

Al.

[metropolis2k]

Balls, so much for a quick and cheap test! Thanks.

[HerrFlick]

Balls, so much for a quick and cheap test! Thanks.

For a quick test you can fit them in place of the 'S' tubes but you'll have a gap where they pass through the air box. I don't think it will affect performance.

You'll only need a mile or two for a test so there's no worry about unfiltered air over such a short distance.

.

[kfrogzx7]

Balls, so much for a quick and cheap test! Thanks.

Perhaps they could be temporarily sealed into the airbox with some silicon sealant, do it neatly and it might even be semi permanent ?

I've just bought a GS airbox ( hopefully with complete tubes ) on ebay so will be doing the mod myself soon.

[metropolis2k]

Good thinking chaps. I might give it a go at the weekend in that case.

[lennie]

hi all. I have read about this mod and first time I have seen the photos.

The reason there is improvement at lower rpms is that the smaller tubes increase airflow velocity at low cam opening and lower rpms.

I would consider the mod if I still had a R1100S.

All the other mods do work and some of us who do make products to improve power delivery it is not just about the money. I would live a paupers life of the income I get from my parts and do not have a full time shop to run. For me it is about all the good feedback and smiles on dials riding fun.

Enjoy

[Blackal]

I was sceptical of the improvement that bellmouths made when not in a "ram-air" situation, but they made a hell of a difference to my R-1 (and produced a greatly-increased intake howl.)

I guess "Velocity Stacks" is an American term (but sounds cool as fcuk )

My Factory Pro Velocity Stacks are almost too sexy to hide in an airbox:



These are the long ones which are dimensioned for mid-range torque, but you also get short ones for more top end.

The R-1 4C8 engine (2007 model with the 4v/v engine) had automatic variable-length intakes for the best of both worlds.

So - the mod should work, and when you consider the engine/bike where they came from - the results should emulate what they were fitted to the GS for................ increased low/mid-range grunt.

Al

[HerrFlick]

hi all. I have read about this mod and first time I have seen the photos.

The reason there is improvement at lower rpms is that the smaller tubes increase airflow velocity at low cam opening and lower rpms.

I would consider the mod if I still had a R1100S.

All the other mods do work and some of us who do make products to improve power delivery it is not just about the money. I would live a paupers life of the income I get from my parts and do not have a full time shop to run. For me it is about all the good feedback and smiles on dials riding fun.

Enjoy

" For me it is about all the good feedback and smiles on dials riding fun."

Know just what you mean Mark, and thanks.

.

[kfrogzx7]

Well I've just got back from my test ride to get petrol after doing the GS Tubes mod and first impressions are very favourable.
She's definitely pulling strongly from small throttle openings, ticking over less lumpily and therefore pulling away more smoothly on the clutch, stronger in lower revs ( 2-4k ) than she was and not noticeably weaker above that.
So far after 10 mls I'm very pleased.

I tried to fit the GS tubes direct initially because I think I found a way of sealing the airbox using the grommets from the GS box ( I bought the whole shabang ), unfortunately however I just couldn't position the right hd tube correctly, it just fouled on the side of the airbox whatever I did.
Give it a try Metro if you like, maybe you'll have more luck than me, but I couldn't do it.
So I fitted them exactly as per Herrflick's pics and directions, thanks a lot for that HF, much appreciated.
Now looking forward to a longer ride at the w/e, wonder how fuel consumption will go ?

[Al]

I have done just over a 100 miles on mine since I did the modification, definitely feels as though it pulls better at lower revs, but it is the first ride(s) of the year and the last bike I rode was the wifes 125 Burghman so it should be a bit quicker will keep a check on the fuel figures and check the plugs in another week or so after a few more miles.

Al.

[HerrFlick]

Hi Simon and Al,

Good to hear your results. The very low speed improvement was what surprised me too - ie smoother idle and easier take-up on the clutch. Made for better tractability in tight twisty mountain road corners.

Out of curiosity, what model years are your bikes, do you have the stock intake snorkel, and what colour are your code plugs?


Cheers.

HF.

(All being well I'll fit Lennie's rocket sprockets this weekend )

[kfrogzx7]

Hi Simon and Al,

Good to hear your results. The very low speed improvement was what surprised me too - ie smoother idle and easier take-up on the clutch. Made for better tractability in tight twisty mountain road corners.

Out of curiosity, what model years are your bikes, do you have the stock intake snorkel, and what colour are your code plugs?


Cheers.

HF.

(All being well I'll fit Lennie's rocket sprockets this weekend )

Hi HF, not entirely sure what you mean by "colour of code plugs" ?
Do you mean temp of spark plugs fitted ( sorry if I'm being a bit dense here ) ?
If so I've got NGK Iridium BKR7EIX mains and DCPR8EKC secondaries in my '03 R11s with oe intake snorkel.
Do you think there are any long term implications for the slightly leaner running ( presumably ? ) we get with the gs tubes ?

[HerrFlick]

Hi Simon and Al,

Good to hear your results. The very low speed improvement was what surprised me too - ie smoother idle and easier take-up on the clutch. Made for better tractability in tight twisty mountain road corners.

Out of curiosity, what model years are your bikes, do you have the stock intake snorkel, and what colour are your code plugs?


Cheers.

HF.

(All being well I'll fit Lennie's rocket sprockets this weekend )

Hi HF, not entirely sure what you mean by "colour of code plugs" ?
Do you mean temp of spark plugs fitted ( sorry if I'm being a bit dense here ) ?
If so I've got NGK Iridium BKR7EIX mains and DCPR8EKC secondaries in my '03 R11s with oe intake snorkel.
Do you think there are any long term implications for the slightly leaner running ( presumably ? ) we get with the gs tubes ?

Hi Al.

The code plugs are the Country Code Plugs (CCP. Almost Soviet eh? Maybe Coloured Country Code Plugs: CCCP. They're ya go )

They're used to set the ECU map for use in strange countries (like Switzerland) or where there is only low octane (<91) goats piss available.

They're coloured according to the ECU map they invoke, and look like relays; here are two common ones:



They're located in a black electrical box (with relays and other thingies), front left under the bodywork, and usually fit where I've got those wires plugged in.



and




Here's the table of CCP's in use:



For the moment, ignore the bike/model in the LH column and the Motronic version in the RH column. More later.

Look that the second column and note the occasional "25kW" reference, and also note Pin 86 is earthed to Pin 30. Further down there are two more instances but I think there was insufficent space to mention 25kW. Btw 25kW = 33HP.

NOW - the important bit: My bike had the Gray CCP plug. Absolutely not normal for Oz. Hmm???. The PO used the 'S' for touring around Oz so maybe he wanted to take no risk with adulterated petrol (<91 RON) in remote places (kerosene, turpentine, cat piss etc), but I suspected I was getting lower performance as a result of the Pin 86 connection.

OK. I didn't have other CCCP's to play with, but after looking at the electrical diagram: Viola. Just extend a connection from the 'key' socket pins and bridge them to emulate the different code plug connections.

I found if you earth Pin 86 (to Pin 30) I dropped 25kW output. (= Gray CCP). How? Away to my local mountain roads with Pin 86 to Pin 30. Hmm ok. Stop. Turn off ignition. Unlink '86' and '30'. Away again. Ohhh sheet Senior - where did that come from?

I then experimented with the other Cat Non-Cat Pin 86 combinations (my bike has a cat) and found (apart from the extra 25kW), the different combinations produced varying benefits, mostly to do with low speed tractability. That was 2 yrs ago and I didn't make any notes so I can't be more precise. Sorry.

Remember all this is with the GS choobs in place.

One thing I did decide was that I could have a 'reduced output setting - eg for wet or slippery conditions', achieved by a push-button switch on the dash, to connect/disconnect Pin 86 to Pin 30. How good is that eh?

Daggy conditions? Stop, turn off, push button in, re-start and Bob's yer Uncle. Who sez we're behind in the technology stakes? Yair well we might not be not 'that' advanced, but we're not too far behind either. Sort of. Well maybe. OK just a little ....

Anyway Simon, does that help you a little?


Cheers

HF

[Al]

Mines a 2000 s sport, laser cans and chip, lennies intake duct and a K&N air filter. No idea what code plug is fitted, not taking boywork off again to look.

Al.