Posted: Mon May 11, 2015 6:14 pm
f90x wrote:This is the finished job. Turned out ok. Sandy did 3 coats of acid etch but i went with 4, then 3 coats of PJ1 satin black.
mines in the post Steve
mines in the post Steve
www.boxertrix.com
The UK-based forum for BMW's sportiest Boxer motorcycles
http://www.boxertrix.com/phpBB2/
Final drive service
Page 2 of 3
mines in the post Steve
Posted: Mon May 11, 2015 7:58 pm
4 coats of acid etch! 5 if you include the road salt
Keep us informed how it holds up.
Good effort, 10 out of 10 for enduring love
Keep us informed how it holds up.
Good effort, 10 out of 10 for enduring love
Posted: Mon May 11, 2015 10:00 pm
Actually I transposed the figures there. It was 3 of primer and 4 of top coat.
Posted: Mon May 11, 2015 11:13 pm
Good effort! The front cover and pipes look great.
Mike
Mike
Posted: Tue May 12, 2015 3:58 pm
popsky wrote:f90x wrote:This is the finished job. Turned out ok. Sandy did 3 coats of acid etch but i went with 4, then 3 coats of PJ1 satin black.
mines in the post Steve
Ha, if you manage to take it off I 'will' paint it for you. I did mine in situ.
Posted: Tue May 12, 2015 4:09 pm
f90x wrote:
Ha, if you manage to take it off I 'will' paint it for you. I did mine in situ.
Has anyone taken off the cover themselves. I read that the gasket is super-expensive?
Posted: Thu Jul 02, 2015 9:26 pm
Nice job with the final drive...must have taken patience, but rewarding to know it should last longer for that.
Sympathy over the corrosion - need to sort out my bike too, and your result shows it can be done at home.
I see you have same hydraulic platform (mine is currently holding up the 1100s as I get started on a grr-earbox repair) - handy and cheaper than a full lifting table.
J.
Sympathy over the corrosion - need to sort out my bike too, and your result shows it can be done at home.
I see you have same hydraulic platform (mine is currently holding up the 1100s as I get started on a grr-earbox repair) - handy and cheaper than a full lifting table.
J.
Posted: Sat Jul 04, 2015 4:36 pm
You're right about the table - it looked OK in Machine Mart but takes up a large part of garage - time to extend me thinks
Posted: Fri Feb 05, 2016 6:23 pm
what is the oil of choice for the final drive? The BMW stuff is £40/ltr while the Castrol SAF-OS or whatever it's called is about £20 ish
Posted: Fri Feb 05, 2016 6:50 pm
dave the german wrote:what is the oil of choice for the final drive? The BMW stuff is £40/ltr while the Castrol SAF-OS or whatever it's called is about £20 ish
The castrol stuff is what BMW used to recommend, not sure if it's changed as they are now pushing shell oils?
The Castrol SAF XO is about £16 per litre on Opie. It's enough to do your final drive 5 times. Same stuff is used in the gearbox, although you will need to buy 2 bottles to do both.
PM me your email and I will send you the relevant pages from the BMW service book.
Posted: Fri Feb 05, 2016 7:10 pm
Thanks Jim
I already have the service manual but was curious to see what others were using - that's a bit of a saving over what BMW want although their lubricants have always seemed steep. I've got the back wheel and shocks off my 12s so thought it would be a good idea to do the final drive while it's on the work stand
I already have the service manual but was curious to see what others were using - that's a bit of a saving over what BMW want although their lubricants have always seemed steep. I've got the back wheel and shocks off my 12s so thought it would be a good idea to do the final drive while it's on the work stand
Posted: Fri Feb 05, 2016 7:36 pm
Just checked on Shell's website and there isn't an oil from shell that is recommended for the 12. There is a recommendation for the 11s. I might just use Comma from Halfords as it seems to cover the necessary requirements. It may be the first time it's been changed so got to do it more good than harm
Posted: Sun Feb 14, 2016 11:44 am
Another final drive oil change question. According to the official BMW manual, the torque arm nut is supposed to be replaced - is this necessary or is it just like Hondas where the Loctite needs cleaning off and can be re-used?
Posted: Sun Feb 14, 2016 12:03 pm
Pretty sure, if you clean with acetone and re-loc (med-strength) - you would be fine.
Otherwise - buy a small amount of Nyloc nuts.
(and send me any spares)
Al
Otherwise - buy a small amount of Nyloc nuts.
(and send me any spares)
Al
Posted: Sun Feb 14, 2016 12:06 pm
That's what I thought Al. Honda recommend changing brake caliper mounting bolts every time they are removed but Haynes just say clean them and use fresh threadlock - now, where's me nail varnish remover?