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Try adjuting the rear paralever bearings before you replace anything.
Very simple job to adjust, you don't even need to remove the rear wheel.

Hay Ewe^ wrote:So it uses the abs system to calculate the speed?

No. Otherwise how would non ABS bikes speedo work

The speedo sensor is inside the final drive case.

Hi all. I call it the high idle lever and I hope you guys know what I am referring to?

I use the high idle lever as one would use a choke on start up. And then decrease the lever as the bike warms up lowering the revs. But at idling I find I have to have the lever cracked a little bit otherwise ...

I've seen a few of these over the years with similar damage caused by previous attempts at seal removal.

I've always used a quality silicon sealant (believe me there is a vast difference in quality between sealants) spread around the damaged area and then inserted the new seal just before it's gone ...

Try resetting all adaptations using the GS911.

To synch the idle/stepper motors on a 1200 you'll need to plug in a GS911 diagnostic service tool .

Put your foot on the rear caliper where it has BMW stamped and push as hard as you can. This will retract the brake caliper pistons and spread the pads so they won't be touching the disc (it's also good idea to do this every couple of months anyway as it prevents the rear caliper pins seizing ...

It used to be 36k miles but when the servo braked bikes appeared they changed it to every 24k miles, due to the extra load on the alternator, extra load means it's harder to turn.

I suggest to my customers that they replace the belt every 24k miles on Servo/abs braked bikes.
Non ABS or just abs ...

Leytonman wrote:I want a gearbox rebuilt (R1100S). I need it done properly. Can you recommend anyone?

what do you mean by a "rebuild"?

New bearings and seals ?

Output shaft/layshaft needle roller bearings?

Selector forks or sliding dogs ?

The old (non elas) 611 belt as fitted to all the 1993>onwards 1100 engines and pre servo 1150 engines can be fitted to the later engines without any problem, even if the bike has the alternator freewheel pulley.

Is it fair to say then, that it could be either bearing, or both, which is worn? The "play" would just make itself felt at one side or another due to lopsided static weight/leverage of the components you describe.

Because the bearings are opposing each other, adjusted against each other, without ...

Try adding 200-210mm rather than 180.

180 just isn't enough oil.

Nice bikes. I use one as a loan bike for my GS shop.
Never gets cleaned and been faultless for the last 4 years, and it's in use every day by customers who just get on it and ride, if you know what i mean.

Blackened lower plugs is normal on a twin spark engine.

And coil caps melting happens when they've been failed for a long period of time, i've even seen them catch fire and burn the cap wiring, that's why there's a purpose section of wiring available from bmw to repair those that do get burnt.

the smudger wrote:[The only concrete way of telling is reading a fault code.
so if the HC's are continuously high due to the fact the secondarys are not working, a fault code will be logged.

.

Coil fault codes aren't logged.